Custom window access hole covers

[smurfslayer]

Only wrapping to the stock sub enclosure, no upgrade to the driver/amp? I was planning to upgeade the driver/amp plus do the wrapping.

Which wrap material did you use for the sub enclosure and doors? Anybisdues rattles/squeaks on the doors after taking tbe panels off/putting back? I changed mirrors on my Gen1 and the doors rattled after that no matter what I tried. Leery to take the dokrs apart on gen2 now. Did matting the doors help with lowering cabin noise?

So I did my mods in stages - sort of like the stages of grief; denial was first, then anger, etc.

when I was still in denial, I did the sub + 300w amp (I still have them, just not using them). That worked, and added enough bass for the 25w sony.

then I took some inspiration from @Guy and swapped out stock speakers and did some dynamat to the doors and the sub enclosure. Sub enclosure was a really nice change. this was the stock sony enclosure, slightly modded to fit the kicker shallow 8” sub. The wrap took the sub from louder/cleaner than stock to able to vibrate the mirrors.

Then I saw someone had the 10” MTI behind the seat enclosure and thought to myself: “Oh HELL yes”. I wrote that up on the audio forum. I amped the 10” with the 300w amp for a while.

From there, I swapped front coax speakers for components. then later on I did the DSR1/main amp swap and swapped the sub amp for the JL 500x1.

Along the way, my door locks were recalled twice. Each of my 4 door panels has been off and on at least 6 times. and a couple more for individuals; loose wire, etc. I have not had any problems with rattling, buzzing, etc. I’m not understanding how you could if I’m honest. You’ve got several hard mount points in addition to the clips.

Dynamat definitely does help, but I do not have in cabin db readings to quantify. I can say that if it did register on the sound meter, it would be minimal or negligible. To me, it’s just given the stereo a more full sound.

 

[ljn21]

So I did my mods in stages - sort of like the stages of grief; denial was first, then anger, etc.

when I was still in denial, I did the sub + 300w amp (I still have them, just not using them). That worked, and added enough bass for the 25w sony.

then I took some inspiration from @Guy and swapped out stock speakers and did some dynamat to the doors and the sub enclosure. Sub enclosure was a really nice change. this was the stock sony enclosure, slightly modded to fit the kicker shallow 8” sub. The wrap took the sub from louder/cleaner than stock to able to vibrate the mirrors.

Then I saw someone had the 10” MTI behind the seat enclosure and thought to myself: “Oh HELL yes”. I wrote that up on the audio forum. I amped the 10” with the 300w amp for a while.

From there, I swapped front coax speakers for components. then later on I did the DSR1/main amp swap and swapped the sub amp for the JL 500x1.

Along the way, my door locks were recalled twice. Each of my 4 door panels has been off and on at least 6 times. and a couple more for individuals; loose wire, etc. I have not had any problems with rattling, buzzing, etc. I’m not understanding how you could if I’m honest. You’ve got several hard mount points in addition to the clips.

Dynamat definitely does help, but I do not have in cabin db readings to quantify. I can say that if it did register on the sound meter, it would be minimal or negligible. To me, it’s just given the stereo a more full sound.

Got it, thanks for all the detail! I might try the matting wrap on the enclosure first before swapping the sub/amp to see how it does.

What brand of matting did you buy/where did you get it from?

 

[lateralis]

Got it, thanks for all the detail! I might try the matting wrap on the enclosure first before swapping the sub/amp to see how it does.

What brand of matting did you buy/where did you get it from?

Just get some basic stuff like Nicco off of Amazon. You won't need a lot and for something you just want to "try" it's better to save your money than spend the dough on the expensive stuff. Once it's stuck on you can't reuse it. Also for random rattles Tesa tape (cloth wire loom tape) is awesome. You see it all over the place in the truck for a reason. I like to cut up strips and put it between the plastic clips.

 

[nikhsub1]

Dumb question but how are these better than covering the openings with dynamat or the like?


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[lateralis]

Dumb question but how are these better than covering the openings with dynamat or the like?


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The panels don't "flex". It's like covering your window with a plastic bag vs rolling up the window. If you think about the sound energy that a speaker makes in the door consider this analogy. If I throw a ball against a net the net flexes, slows the ball down and maybe the ball will bounce back some. Now compare that to throwing a ball against a hard wall the ball will bounce back pretty far. Same thing with sound energy. If you have panels flexing or even open areas for the air pressure to escape you lose that volume. That's why you deaden "stiffen" the doors and seal them to maintain as much of the sound the speakers are making in the cab. You can hear more from your speakers at a lower volume.

 

[melvimbe]

A couple questions...

Do you provide instructions on how to take apart to door, apply the cover, and put the door back together?

What are the odds that you could introduce rattles?

Is it likely to require any rewiring of speakers to install these? I've already had my speakers upgraded and assume there's no wiring in the holes.

Do you need to apply other sound deadening at the same time in order to get a benefit? I realize that it make sense to do deadening at the same time when the doors open, just asking.

How many pro hours would it take to install, if you decide to bring to a shop rather than do it yourself?

 

[Winchester30]

Unlike the stick on dynamat, are these reusable with the rivet nuts?

 

[Hush Car Audio]

So many great questions and I'll try to answer them all. If you only have stock speakers with no plans to upgrade in the future then this mod might not be for you aside from them helping to reduce the noise from outside coming through those massive holes in all four doors. As for using these vs Dynamat type of material, the vibration dampening material does have a lot of flex and is terrible for sealing the doors. The holes are massive so trying to apply them will have minimal effect for sound suppression and sound quality. Can you imagine having a sub enclosure that flexes? Same principle applies here. As for rattles, the only rattles you would get would be from the added midbass response from the speakers shaking other things around. My pants vibrate due to using these covers. There will be zero rewiring involved when installing these covers. They simply go over the massive holes in the doors. I would highly recommend doing all of the sound treatment at the same time so you won't have to keep pulling the door panels off multiple times. Doing so will only weaken the clips. A pro shop should be able to install these in 15-20 minutes per door. Removing the door panel is super easy and there are many videos on Youtube showing how to do it. My panels come pre-drilled with pilot holes. All you have to do is use tape to hold them in place, drill a couple of the holes, remove the panel, expand the hole to fit the rivet nut, insert the nut, then tighten the panel to the door. Finish up the rest of the holes, apply some butyl rope/tape, and remount the panel. It would take most people less than 2 hours to do this for the first time. The first door will be the longest and the rest will be super fast. Since we are using rivet nuts along with standard bolts they are very easy to remove multiple times without any harm to the bolts or nuts.

 

[Oldfart]

Got it, thanks for all the detail! I might try the matting wrap on the enclosure first before swapping the sub/amp to see how it does.

What brand of matting did you buy/where did you get it from?

Check out these 2 threads. Big help and have a link for Amazon and FatMat and tips for doing it. It comes as a kit with an installation roller. I just did mine and that's where I learned about it.

https://www.fordraptorforum.com/thr...ate-the-b-o-stereo.76457/page-17#post-1494206
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/why-does-everyone-hate-the-b-o-stereo.76457/page-15

 

[Hush Car Audio]

Fatmat, Ram mat, and the rest of the cheaper brand out there are just OK for what they do. Many people complain later about the smells, melting of butyl, etc. I sell Second Skin Audio products which in my opinion are the best and made in the USA. I'm a vet and like to support US made products. They don't smell and are super high quality products. I've used pretty much every brand out there for install and can absolutely tell you that SSA makes the best stuff. I am always offered deals from other companies and I just can't find a good enough reason to sell them comparatively. My margin on most products is the same so this definitely isn't a financial reason.