GEN 2 Considering 37’s or 38’s Eibach & Deavers or Icons

[Mbdurham]

So...this site is killing me lol. I originally had all intentions of keeping my OEM 19 beadlocks as I do like them a lot and suspension stock. Then after spending more time on here Eibach and leafs started coming into the picture as tempting. Then saw a pic of a raptor a few days ago on Instagram that was “leveled” with 20” fuel and 38 Toyos and can’t get it out of my head [emoji2359] I wasn’t considering 20’s with 35’s as they don’t leave enough tire IMHO but they looked really good with the 38’s. I probably wouldn’t change wheels to another 17 but I believe I would need to for 37’s.

I am holding off on doing anything more for a few months as we are in process of buying a new house and we are getting rid of stuff and I don’t want to move a bunch of extra spare parts. Also as long as I get my wife the new furniture she wants at the same time she won’t even notice my new truck parts.

I currently have Cobb stage 1 and will be doing an intercooler to move up to stage two along with front and rear bumpers this fall but now as I mentioned am also considering Eibachs and Icons or Deavers with 17” or 20” and 37s or 38’s I don’t want to go too high as I want it to still fit in the garage and from everything I’ve read on here I can’t see how the 38’s wouldn’t rub like crazy on the truck I saw that was just leveled.

I have read all of the Icon, Deaver and Eibach threads on here with some preferring Icons over Deavers or vice versa.


So after all the rambling I have a few questions and would like some input please

What is my best option for leafs to get level after installing the Eibach springs?

Will 37’s rub after this? Would 38’s (I am pretty sure yes)

I am still researching wheels as I do not want to downgrade quality or performance for looks and would like something lighter than OEM, forged and hubcentric ...any suggestions?

With the above how much would the overall height of the truck be raised? I believe approximately 3”?

Any guidance or responses would be greatly appreciated. I still have a few months to get all decisions made before I start pulling the trigger.

FWIW I can’t see any heavy off-roading, Baja, jumping, etc in my future

Edit: link to truck on IG

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxdpCQjHvex/?igshid=w95tl5120xd1




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[MadMaxx]

37/12.50's are a pain to clear PROPERLY on these trucks, with a 2.5". Yes, anything can clear if your Balls & Saw are big enough.

I'll tell you right now, that person is full of shit that is claiming to clear 38/13.50's on a Leveling Kit. Unless there's been so much cutting, you can see the damn road through the Kick Panels.

Hell you'd prob have enough trouble trying to clear them on a Fabtech 4".

 

[Big Blue]

You lost me at....20"s

 

[Mbdurham]

You lost me at....20"s

Lol I know I hadn’t considered 20’s until a saw that truck with 38’s


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[zombiekiller]

if you stuff a Toyo or Falken 38" tire, you'll IMMEDIATELY eject your headlights FORCEFULLY. As in, " why are my headlights 50 yards away from the truck".

Full compression clearance on anything north of a tall 37 will require going to a 1 piece front end or designing new headlight mounts.

and I also call complete BS on clearing 38s with a collar lift if the truck is used for more than taking speedbumps at 50 mph.

Outside of the shops actually building these trucks, I'm probably one of the few people that hasn't been afraid to push what is possible on these trucks, as evidenced by losing my cotton-picking mind with regards to how ridiculous my build has gotten.

If there is any doubt, I should have some pics in the next couple weeks that show what is in the way when attempting to run 40s on a hard-use Gen2.

So far, the largest tire that I've seen anyone run on a hard-use gen2 truck is a 39" Baja T/A, and even then the truck was bump stopped to keep the tire out of the fender, and robs at least 1.5" of up travel due to headlight housing clearance ( or lack thereof)

So yeah, mall crawler with just about ZERO use of a raptor in the way it was designed = go for it.

If you have any intention of actually mobbing the truck in the dirt, and want to do it THE RIGHT WAY to actually increase capability, well, that is not gonna happen without opening that checkbook to the tune of about $50-60K.

also, that instagram truck is disgustingly awful.

 

[500mag]

37s are NO problem to clear with a level kit (2" or 2.5" with 1" block in back) and STOCK wheels. If you replace the stock wheels trimming will be required because of the different offset. The problem with 38s are several:
1. All the decent ones are 13.5" wide, so there you have another clearing problem.
2. There are practically no 38s made for 17 inch rims, you to jump up to 20s with the offset problem.
3. You have to replace the front bumper as well to clear them.
4. They are much heavier, higher final drive ratio, etc.

That being said, I think the truck looks good personally except for the KC lights on top, and I think you probably could clear 38s with a 4" lift. Since you are in GA, give Southern Offroad Specialties in ******* a call and ask them. They leveled and mounted my 37s, and I have no rubbing with no trimming.

 

[zombiekiller]

we need a dislike button. 4" lift? AYFKM?

 

[Mbdurham]

Haha thanks for the responses guys. I have seen the light no 20’s lol. If I go 37’s Gonna stick with 17’s maybe Innov8 G400.

Any guidance on what rear springs to keep me level with the Eibach springs? Leaning Icon but what options?

Also thanks for the heads up Southern Off-road specialities. It’s about 10 minutes from my house. I pass it everyday on the way to work. That’s where I was planning on getting the work done

Also if I do go Eibach icon and 37’s am I correct in thinking it will raise the roof height about 3”?

 

[500mag]

Mine is about 3" above stock with 37s, 2.5" level in front, 1" block in back. Hey with a 4 inch lift you could probably fit 39" KM3s on stock wheels - now that would really look cool.

 

[cwylie]

I'm about 1.5 inches higher than stock with 37s now....