COBB FMIC

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Mike T

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Just finished installing a COBB FMIC and one step colder plugs. Just a couple of tips for anyone thinking about doing the COBB.
No need at all to remove the front bumper, there are a couple of 8mm bolts its handy to have an offset head ratcheting head wrench for, but its not a deal breaker if you don't have one just tedious as hell.

You don't have to, but I took the headlight trim panels off just because I wanted more room to get at the grille bolts underneath. It's not hard, but take your time and ease them off (painted pieces).

The rest is fairly easy, a couple of guys said they did this 4-5 hours, that's not me, I didn't (don't) hurry and don't use an impact (electric or otherwise) for much. Probably took me 8 hours total not standing around admiring my handiwork. You won't believe the room you have under there once the stock IC fan setup is gone. Take your time getting the hoses in the right place prior to tightening the clamps, you'll thank yourself later. Hardest part for me was getting the damn BOV hose back on the bottom of the intake and making sure it was locked on. Apparently my arms aren't long enough and or bent in the right places.....

There are a couple of vendor u-tube videos out there (Not COBB) showing how to do this installation, if you want my opinion, take them with more than a couple of grains of salt, they flat tell you to do some wonky shit. One advises the complete wrong thing to do with the O rings COBB supplies....Follow COBBs directions and you'll be golden.

Some guys leave the motors hooked up and tied up, I didn't, I removed them. No CELs, no problems.

I've got some other mods, but the truck runs good, really good. I have a MPT tune, data-logged it after the installation, MPT said its good, getting a lot of benefit from the lower intake temps. They did make one minor adjustment to the tune, didn't tell me what it was.IMG_3683.JPEG IMG_3685.JPEG IMG_3697.jpeg IMG_3704.jpeg
 
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Mike T

Mike T

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I thought for a.........short while about painting it in bigger letters on the front of the IC like some of the manufacturers do. Finally came to my senses and didn't do it. Did the letters with a paint pen. It's the little things....
 
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Mike T

Mike T

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I kind of wanted to be able to see it behind the grille, makes it look a little different. If you know what it is, you can appreciate it, if you don't know what it is, doesn't matter. I appreciate a vehicle you can see someone has done something to and gone out of their way to modify to their liking. I've got some friends that were sport tuners back in the day, they would almost leave the front of a vehicle off to put a big IC in there :cheers:.
 
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Mike T

Mike T

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A tuned forced induction vehicle (actually any performance vehicle) will usually benefit from a bit colder plug due to higher combustion chamber pressures and temperatures. Running a “colder” heat range spark plug will tend to reduce temperatures and hot spots in the combustion chamber. I wouldn't say they're necessary and they won't really add any HP, but when you make modifications you can gain a lot by making layers of small changes that "work together" instead of expecting big changes from doing a couple of big things.


These are the plugs I used. They are one step colder than stock, I gapped at .28 after talking to MPT and a couple of other folks.

Ford Performance 2010-2020 3.5L Ecoboost Cold Spark Plug Set
Ford Performance Part #:
  • M-12405-35T - Set of 6 Spark Plugs
 

dixonk

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can you talk about the plugs? Are the necessary? What do they add? Just got a Cobb FMIC as well. Thanks!

When I sent my datalogs for my Stage 2 Goosetuned tune it was recommended to drop a heat range. I am using non ethanol 91 which is all the stations around me carry and I don't want to mess with blending. The colder plug helps reduce knock.
 
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