Can 37’ Toyos + Zero Offset wheels work on bottom perch? I have no choice.

[Slimneill]

I've been soaking them for a month now, spraying them every few days, tried to get it off yesterday and it wouldn't budge.


Option two: If i were to hammer over the pinch welds at the back of the fender at the firewall where the obvious contact is now when turning the wheel. Where else will i get contact? Remember I'm only talking street use so it won't be offroad or anything with any suspension work out.

When i fit them on the truck on bottom perch, the only area of contact was the back at the firewall, and i figured if i were to trim that i would get about 1.5" to two inches of clearance there. Does anyone know how much suspension articulation you get during hard breaking?

Is the top perch suggested for offloading because you get the wheel pushed up into the wheel well? I don't see how adjusting the perch does anything to change the contact at the back of the fender at the firewall.

Does anyone have the 37" Toyos + Method Zero offset rims on stock perch with glass fenders? If so, do you get any contact during regular street use at the firewall?

Thanks!

 

[Crikk]

Try an air hammer! I couldn't get mine to budge at all with anything we used. Last resort we tried an air hammer and it worked! Mauled up the blur ring alittle but at that point the shocks were well used anyway!

 

[Slimneill]

tried that too.

 

[Slimneill]

Well after trying to sell the tires on Kijiji for 2 months and only getting joke offers. I said F&$k It and installed them, took out the inner fenders, tabbed and hammered over all of the seem on the firewall side of the front fenders and shifted the front bumper forward by 3/8" so that i didn't have to grind away at the bumper's powder coating and watch it rust to nothing.

I was skeptical if it would work all the way up until i drove it down the drive way and no rubbing!!!

That's right, Toyo 37" + Method Zero Offset rims + Stock lower Perch = One happy camper.

So far I've been driving it back and forth to work this week and only heard minor rubbing once while quickly hitting the brakes and turning the wheel to the sweet spot there the edge of the tire will rub against the inner plastic fender. I don't get any rubbing while reversing into the drive way with the wheel turned, and my drive way has a decent slope.

I'll post pics when I'm near my camera.

 

[Slimneill]

Pics of the current set up. I think I'll be doing a 2" lift to level the front out.

 

[Bulletnjm]

Hmmm, now you have me thinking, im on mid perch as of right now. If i hammer out the pinch welds i should be good then? Theoretically of course

 

[SQAudiophile]

Anyone able to share of pic of their hammered pinch welds?

 

[2014RubyRed]

Pics of the current set up. I think I'll be doing a 2" lift to level the front out.

That looks badass!!! Congratulations. Hope it works out in the long run.....

 

[FP Forged]

Pics of the current set up. I think I'll be doing a 2" lift to level the front out.

Do the 1.5" readylift block in the back. It will level it out somewhat without the negative side effects of the leveling spacer. And IMO those 37's will look sick stuffed in the fender wells. The link below is a pic when I had my 1.5" blocks before I went Deaver's with drop shackles.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2cxw4yq.jpg

 

[Slimneill]

Do the 1.5" readylift block in the back. It will level it out somewhat without the negative side effects of the leveling spacer. And IMO those 37's will look sick stuffed in the fender wells. The link below is a pic when I had my 1.5" blocks before I went Deaver's with drop shackles.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2cxw4yq.jpg

Did the 1.5" block in the back drop the rear down to match the front?


The attached picture is of the Passenger side wheel well post grinding but pre bending. As always you get better after you learn from the first attempt.

It's important to make enough of a relief so that the metal can be hammered over with out binding on the next bent tab. The bottom half was the hardest as there was 4 pieces of metal being hammered over at once. Or it could have been i was nursing a torn shoulder blade when i attempted this. Once i hammered everything over i wiped off all the grinder dust with Spray Brake Cleaner and then painted all the visible metal with Rust Killer Primer by Rust Check. Rust and salt is a serious concern up here. I will have to take more photos of the status to date. I plan to coat everything with spray on truck bed liner for another level of protection. ANd then see if i can get the stock wheel liners back in there. I will have to figure out how to pull the back half f the liner up against the fire wall. Maybe a pop rivet or something.

I had everything clearanced ok then i took it for a front wheel alignment which left it rubbing again. So i removed more of the bottom inner fender and now i don't have any rubbing at all. I also installed about 3/4" worth of steel washers on all 4 front bumper bolts to shift the front bumper out forward so that i don't have any concerns about rubbing in the front and i didn't have to grind that at all. the front bumper shift is easy, takes about 5 mins if you don't take all of the bolts out at once just loosen them all off and remove two at a time. The bumper doesn't even have to come off.

I only get slight rubbing if I'm stopping quickly and turning the wheel pretty sharply like almost missing a turn for a parking lot.