GEN 1 Brake issue

[MurderedOutSVT]

Hydraulic Control Unit, which is the ABS valve block.

Sounds like what happened to mine.

 

[Jonknf]

Did you start at the right rear and ......

I used one that was air operated and sucks it through as I was by my self started at the passenger rear a

I had to have a abs module bled on my '06 once when it did the same thing. Bled it 3 times and could not get a solid pedal after I put on new calipers.

How do u do that

Did the master cylinder reservoir run dry at any point during the bleed process? If so, there will be air in the lines and HCU which may be difficult to get out with a vacuum bleeder. If the reservoir never ran dry, did you remove the old fluid from the reservoir and refill it with new fluid before bleeding? If not you would have pulled the old dirty/contaminated fluid through the system, which can cause the dump valves in the HCU to stick and bleed off pressure.

i didn’t empty the oil fluid out before
Never ran dry
I have a hard pedal but no stopping power
When I step on the brakes it slows the truck down but no matter how hard on push the pedal I can’t lock up the wheels

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

I used one that was air operated and sucks it through as I was by my self started at the passenger rear a

How do u do that

i didn’t empty the oil fluid out before
Never ran dry
I have a hard pedal but no stopping power
When I step on the brakes it slows the truck down but no matter how hard on push the pedal I can’t lock up the wheels

I had to take it to the shop I use. Took them a while to figure what to do. According to them it's not a common problem. My calipef had pushed out and seized, so I put 2 new ones on the front. That is where it started. Bleed, bleed, bleed, no air and clean fluid at all corners but a very soft pedal that took forever to stop. Shop guy said it was a p.i.t.a. to do

 

[FordTechOne]

I used one that was air operated and sucks it through as I was by my self started at the passenger rear a

How do u do that

i didn’t empty the oil fluid out before
Never ran dry
I have a hard pedal but no stopping power
When I step on the brakes it slows the truck down but no matter how hard on push the pedal I can’t lock up the wheels

If the brake pedal is stiff that is an indicator that you have a loss of power brake assist. That can be caused by a loss of vacuum to the brake booster or a failed brake booster. It's also possible that debris caused an isolation valve to stick in the HCU, but that typically causes a hard pedal with a pull to one side.

 

[RemyT]

I have similar issue with the breaks being week on my Gen 1. 167k on the odometer. It wont lock
Up regardless how hard you step on them. Took it to the shot. They changed the rear breaks and the fluid. Still the breaks were week. Took it back couple weeks later. Replaced pads rotors and even calipers upfront and changed the fluid one more time. The breaks still suck. Shop is not sure what the issue is. Suggested getting racing type pads for more stopping power but i know the root cause wont be addressed. Any ideas what could be the issue?

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

Before you take it to a shop to have the ABS bled. Bleed with the old school method. Starting at the passenger side rear, with a buddy pumping the pedal, release the fluid through the bleeder manually during pumping the brake pedal. Then go to the drive side rear, then pass side front and then driver side front. I would fully flush each one until clear fluid comes out, making sure to top it off between each wheel.

 

[FordTechOne]

I have similar issue with the breaks being week on my Gen 1. 167k on the odometer. It wont lock
Up regardless how hard you step on them. Took it to the shot. They changed the rear breaks and the fluid. Still the breaks were week. Took it back couple weeks later. Replaced pads rotors and even calipers upfront and changed the fluid one more time. The breaks still suck. Shop is not sure what the issue is. Suggested getting racing type pads for more stopping power but i know the root cause wont be addressed. Any ideas what could be the issue?

The brakes should never “lock up”, these trucks are equipped with ABS. Start with an HCU bleed and full system brake fluid flush. Also make sure the shop installed the calipers correctly with the bleeders up. If they calipers are swapped between sides you’ll never get the air out.

 

[EricM]

There's no way for anyone in an internet forum to know excatly how "the breaks still sucks" translates into real braking performance.

Go do a test on your "breaks". I'm sure somewhere on the internet there is a stock Raptor magaizne test that has braking distances listed. Go try to match them.

By the way, all F150s for the last 20+ years have had 4 wheel anti-lock brakes.

 

[Mortega_69]

The brakes should never “lock up”, these trucks are equipped with ABS. Start with an HCU bleed and full system brake fluid flush. Also make sure the shop installed the calipers correctly with the bleeders up. If they calipers are swapped between sides you’ll never get the air out.

You’re right they shouldn’t lock but I think he’s saying he can’t even get the ABS to activate which is a problem. It’s happening on my truck to I can’t brake hard enough with 2 legs pushing full force to even trigger the ABS which is what I assume this guys talking about. When this truck was new I could brake hard enough to lock them and trigger ABS.

 

[TomDirt]

I'm sure somewhere on the internet there is a stock Raptor magaizne test that has braking distances listed.

I looked for a long time, but couldn't find an actual legit 3rd-party test. The closest I could find is this before and after test with Alcons.

For some unknown reason, even the guys representing the new Wilwood kits haven't (that I've seen) done an unbiased, in depth before and after test. And that's for a Reasonably Priced brand new product designed specifically for the Raptor 's specific 17" wheels s, 35" tire size, and overall weight.


If they offered to set up a Raptor test by asking a Gen 1, 2, & 3 owner to bring in their unmodified truck to do a before and after test, and used real engineers and a real test track, who of us would not offer their truck?