Bora 1” spacers on oem 37 beadlock

[BoostCreep]

Who uses spacers?

Formula, WRC, NASCAR, Baja, should I continue? Not everyone uses them but most teams have used them without issue in certain applications. I wouldn’t want to use any that aren’t hubcentric unless you have a hub and wheel stud setup designed to be used with thin, non hubcentric spacers.

 

[New recaros]

I seriously doubt any professional race team would add a point of failure. I could see them testing a few combinations, but after that buying the correct offset wheel.

 

[BoostCreep]

I seriously doubt any professional race team would add a point of failure. I could see them testing a few combinations, but after that buying the correct offset wheel.

It’s not a point of failure that is of concern, high quality spacers that are properly installed just don’t really fail. I’d take a good hub centric spacer over some “correct offset” cast Chinese manufactured garbage wheel like I see so many people use to be honest.

 

[hyrepower]

It’s not a point of failure that is of concern, high quality spacers that are properly installed just don’t really fail. I’d take a good hub centric spacer over some “correct offset” cast Chinese manufactured garbage wheel like I see so many people use to be honest.

Everyone always uses Method Wheels as they have the best marketing, but they are cast Made Chinese products. There is nothing wrong with the quality or safety of properly installed BORA Spacers. The OEM wheels are damn good quality as well. So I am unsure what I am missing as to think this is a fairly decent option?
I most likely am going to get a set of KMC forged Monoblock wheels like I had on my previous Raptor, I was just considering using the BORAs as I like the OEM wheels so much that it may be good option for someone like myself.

 

[New recaros]

There is someone making factory look a like wheels, OE wheels maybe? The factory wheels are really good quality. I just don’t see why one would introduce a point of failure. (Another joint) you must have to surface’s perfectly clean and they stay torqued.
Have you ever used a cheater pipe or a longer wrench to break a bolt loose? If so, you know the increased length provided more torque. That is what you are doing with spacers, increased load on the lug bolts and suspension components. They probably work in most cases. If not done just right, they could introduce failures that I will pass on. But hey, have at it. I am sure your truck will look great.

 

[hyrepower]

There is someone making factory look a like wheels, OE wheels maybe? The factory wheels are really good quality. I just don’t see why one would introduce a point of failure. (Another joint) you must have to surface’s perfectly clean and they stay torqued.
Have you ever used a cheater pipe or a longer wrench to break a bolt loose? If so, you know the increased length provided more torque. That is what you are doing with spacers, increased load on the lug bolts and suspension components. They probably work in most cases. If not done just right, they could introduce failures that I will pass on. But hey, have at it. I am sure your truck will look great.

If they weren’t hub centric, you’d be correct. Anyone who doesn’t do hub centric spacer, or wheels, is ignorant. However if it is hub centric, all the pressure remains on the hub. Being the truck would be brand new, there is no corrosion on the caliper or hub, so the fit would be flawlessly flush.

I’ve used hub centric H & R spacers on Audis and BMWs before that were autocrossed, never had any issues whatsoever. You do need to ensure they are torqued to 150 ft/lbs and definitely use locking lugs with nylon in them, or lock tight.

 

[BoostCreep]

Have you ever used a cheater pipe or a longer wrench to break a bolt loose? If so, you know the increased length provided more torque. That is what you are doing with spacers, increased load on the lug bolts and suspension components.

From an engineering perspective, you are correct, spacers increase the moment at the hub face. But wheels with a lower offset do the EXACT same thing. The moment at the hub will be no different with a 0 offset wheel vs stock wheel with a 34mm spacer.

 

[dbalt]

So do you need to cut the studs if you run 1.25” spacers on the OEM wheels?

can't speak on the gen3 oem wheels, but the 19-20 beadlocks have 3 deep pockets on the inside of the wheel, the other 3 are shallow. I took a 1/2" drill bit and drilled the shallow holes out a bit. This cleared the 1.25" spacers easily without having to trim the studs.

The front studs are shorter so this isn't required, but I did all the wheels anyways for when I rotate the tires.

 

[Jeff-Ohio]

I believe my BORA spacers are 1.25" on my Gen 2 and I did not have to trim the studs. Give them a call and they will tell you the smallest spacer that will work without trimming. That is what I did years ago.

 

[New recaros]

From an engineering perspective, you are correct, spacers increase the moment at the hub face. But wheels with a lower offset do the EXACT same thing. The moment at the hub will be no different with a 0 offset wheel vs stock wheel with a 34mm spacer.

The factory wheel or a 0 offset wheel deliver the forces in the same location. The spacers deliver it 34 mm further away.
Question, are the factory hub’s perfectly flat? What is the tolerance? Is the spacer perfectly flat? What are their tolerance? So let’s say tolerance is .001 on both and you bolt the two high spots together, sure the bolts will close the now .002 gap, but is it a sound mechanical joint?
To many places for a slight error to have bad outcomes.