Beauty Ring Torque Specs?

[Zeusmotorworks]

Thread revive… was looking for the size of torx to use on these rings. It’s a T45 for anyone looking in the future as I didn’t find it posted.

Additional note: Coming from an aerospace manufacturering background, you want to put something on the threads as Ford did to help prevent seizing due to dissimilar metals. Would be “dumb” not to. My first choice would be antiseize if one is removing them every time a tire is being dismounted. Some yahoo will come along and say they never had a problem not. Well no one does until they do.

 

[Retired in TN]

I didn’t care about the torque specs for my beauty rings. I tightened them using a 1/8” drive and rechecked the next day. No issues. These particular fasteners don’t see any load, so achieving a specific bolt torque / clamp load is not important.

If needed, apply heat (ex hair dryer) at the studs before removing. Heat breaks down the adhesive.

Regarding Ford suspension fasteners, they generally have a Magni Zinc-Organic coating with a topcoat that includes Aluminum. This coating works great when mated into Aluminum because Aluminum is part of the topcoat. Anti-seize should not be necessary, just remember to apply heat if removing the screws is difficult.

Fastener coating 30 years ago was essentially junk (60-120 hrs salt spray to red rust) and anti-seize into AL applications was a must. Ford and GM now use a suspension fastener coating rated at 1000 hrs minimum before seeing red rust. My how times have changed.

One note: I found removing these studs easier using a 3/8” drive. I did not need to heat the studs.

 

[Bracamonte]

I didn’t care about the torque specs for my beauty rings. I tightened them using a 1/8” drive and rechecked the next day. No issues. These particular fasteners don’t see any load, so achieving a specific bolt torque / clamp load is not important.

If needed, apply heat (ex hair dryer) at the studs before removing. Heat breaks down the adhesive.

Regarding Ford suspension fasteners, they generally have a Magni Zinc-Oxide coating with a topcoat that includes Aluminum. This coating works great when mated into Aluminum because Aluminum is part of the topcoat. Anti-seize should not be necessary, just remember to apply heat if removing the screws is difficult.

Fastener coating 30 years ago was essentially junk (120 hrs salt spray to red rust) and anti-seize was a must. Ford and GM now use a suspension fastener coating rated at 1000 hrs minimum before seeing red rust. My how times have changed.

One note: I found removing these studs easier using a 3/8” drive. I did not need to heat the studs.

Yeah, it's an aesthetic ring. It really doesn't matter how tight it is as long as it just stays on. And you can easily remove it yourself later when changing tires or wheels.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

I didn’t care about the torque specs for my beauty rings. I tightened them using a 1/8” drive and rechecked the next day. No issues. These particular fasteners don’t see any load, so achieving a specific bolt torque / clamp load is not important.

If needed, apply heat (ex hair dryer) at the studs before removing. Heat breaks down the adhesive.

Regarding Ford suspension fasteners, they generally have a Magni Zinc-Oxide coating with a topcoat that includes Aluminum. This coating works great when mated into Aluminum because Aluminum is part of the topcoat. Anti-seize should not be necessary, just remember to apply heat if removing the screws is difficult.

Fastener coating 30 years ago was essentially junk (120 hrs salt spray to red rust) and anti-seize was a must. Ford and GM now use a suspension fastener coating rated at 1000 hrs minimum before seeing red rust. My how times have changed.

One note: I found removing these studs easier using a 3/8” drive. I did not need to heat the studs.

The coating on these fasteners is not such spec and exceptionally thin. They are as pointed out spec'd for a "beauty ring", or not load bearing.

Yeah, it's an aesthetic ring. It really doesn't matter how tight it is as long as it just stays on. And you can easily remove it yourself later when changing tires or wheels.

Correct, unless you over tighten them and stress damage the treads. Even then really only matters if you expect those threads to hold a bead at some point. If not, really not a big deal per se.

 

[Retired in TN]

The coating on these fasteners is not such spec and exceptionally thin. They are as pointed out spec'd for a "beauty ring", or not load bearing.

Total BS. These studs are in a highly corrosive environment and are highly visible. Of course they have the standard fastener coating Ford uses for corrosive environments. You know little to nothing about automotive fastener applications, stop pretending.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

You win there sir... I'm sure regardless.

However, if you misconstrued my response, I wasn't saying they were not coated. That would be silly as they would have no corosion resistance less any qualities in the alloy used. I WAS saying they are NOT coated same as the load bearing suspension fasteners.

 

[Retired in TN]

Corrosion requirements drive coating selection, not whether an automotive attachment sees static or dynamic chassis loads. Wheel fasteners are about the most visible fasteners on the entire vehicle. Ford has little choice but to use an excellent coating. The Magni Zn-Organic coating is used on about everything that contacts Aluminum. The Magni coating works well because the top coat includes Aluminum.

Admittedly the “fact check” posting style I consider a bit heavy handed. Just please be sure you have full understand before choosing to correct people.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Again, you win, over and out...