Battery swap / fuse 27 project questions

[ninjazed]

Greetings everyone. I’m not a frequent poster on these forums but I check in regularly recognizing the collective knowledge of fellow raptor owners. So here’s the situation that I’m hoping to get opinions on. After 5 1/2 years of totally enjoying my truck I’m getting ready to replace the battery even though the stock one still works fine. I feel that I’ve had a good run with the original but I don’t want to tempt fate this winter. Especially since battery swaps are a bit more complicated than they were in past years! I also decided that while the battery is disconnected I’ll do the fuse 27 relocation job at the same time. In prep for the job I obtained the following items: motorcraft fuse 27 relocate kit, new battery insulator jacket (mine is all deteriorated at the top for some reason), 9 volt battery dash power connector and OBD connector via USB to Forscan program installed on my PC.


First question: Odyssey or Northstar? I’ve done my research and IMO these are the two top dogs these days but is one really any better than the other? I’m sure I’ll be happy with either but wanted to hear folks experience as well.


Question 2: Is it really necessary to maintain power continuity to avoid losing data and presets? Or is the short amount of time that the battery will be disconnected for this entire project not going to be a big deal? I’m not looking to lose data but I think I read where trying to maintain juice (albeit only 9 volt) could cause electronic damaging fluctuations. Again, reports on personal experience would be appreciated.


Question 3: Do those anti-corrosion felt battery terminal rings work? If so, why don’t more people (and manufacturers) use them? Just wondering.


Final question: Is my 35 year old Craftsman battery charger good for modern AGM type batteries? I was going to update mine but the dizzying selection and spotty reliability of these newfangled electronic models has me wondering if I should just keep what I have.


Thanks in advance to anyone caring to contribute here. In closing I’ll just say that so far my Raptor has been one awesome truck but....I think it’s kind of messed up that Ford acknowledges a problem with fuse 27 and even provides a remedy kit but makes you pay for the parts and labor. So far mine appears to be holding up but just to be on the safe side I decided to stop kicking the can down the road and do it with the battery swap. All the best to everyone!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

battery choice is up to you. i run the yellow top from optima. there was a bad batch a while back where there some issues, but thsts been resolved. due to the current i draw, yellow top suited my needs. i have one in the bed and one in the main location.

disconnecting the battery will reset some electronics in the truck. you can always start the truck and then change the battery. the alternator is what keeps the vehicle running and charges the battery. i change mine with the truck running as to not lose anything i have set.

i have never used those felt rings. cant say. but corrosion is the first sign of a leaking battery. time to replace

all batteries should charge fine with your charger, however a deep cycle battery can possibly be damaged. since chargers are cheap now days, might want to invest in a new one

 

[xtela]

[QUOTE="Final question: Is my 35 year old Craftsman battery charger good for modern AGM type batteries? I was going to update mine but the dizzying selection and spotty reliability of these newfangled electronic models has me wondering if I should just keep what I have.[/QUOTE]

You can check the output voltage on your charger. From the Odyssey battery manual:
....charger voltage within the range of 14.1V to 14.7V. It is imperative not to exceed 15.0V as this will cause the pressure valves to open and out-gas hydrogen, oxygen and water from inside the battery. This will shorten the life of the battery and cause premature failure. Some portable chargers exceed 15.0V, especially two-wheel garage chargers, so charging voltages should be verified by measuring the charging voltage during the time when the charging amperage is reducing from full output. The deep cycle charging voltage must be within 14.1V minimum to 14.7V maximum.

https://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-OM.pdf

 

[Jonny V]

I use an old school Craftsman trickle charger...works great!!

 

[saeuta]

My odessey went bad after a year so i went with Northstar, no complaints whatsoever.

My dad would fry his batteries with an older charger when he would forget to unplug it and it be charging in continuous mode, not timed. It's a lot harder to fry batteries with newer chargers that detect voltage. Keep your old one but also get a new one.

 

[Ricoman]

Greetings everyone. I’m not a frequent poster on these forums but I check in regularly recognizing the collective knowledge of fellow raptor owners. So here’s the situation that I’m hoping to get opinions on. After 5 1/2 years of totally enjoying my truck I’m getting ready to replace the battery even though the stock one still works fine. I feel that I’ve had a good run with the original but I don’t want to tempt fate this winter. Especially since battery swaps are a bit more complicated than they were in past years! I also decided that while the battery is disconnected I’ll do the fuse 27 relocation job at the same time. In prep for the job I obtained the following items: motorcraft fuse 27 relocate kit, new battery insulator jacket (mine is all deteriorated at the top for some reason), 9 volt battery dash power connector and OBD connector via USB to Forscan program installed on my PC.


First question: Odyssey or Northstar? I’ve done my research and IMO these are the two top dogs these days but is one really any better than the other? I’m sure I’ll be happy with either but wanted to hear folks experience as well.


Question 2: Is it really necessary to maintain power continuity to avoid losing data and presets? Or is the short amount of time that the battery will be disconnected for this entire project not going to be a big deal? I’m not looking to lose data but I think I read where trying to maintain juice (albeit only 9 volt) could cause electronic damaging fluctuations. Again, reports on personal experience would be appreciated.


Question 3: Do those anti-corrosion felt battery terminal rings work? If so, why don’t more people (and manufacturers) use them? Just wondering.


Final question: Is my 35 year old Craftsman battery charger good for modern AGM type batteries? I was going to update mine but the dizzying selection and spotty reliability of these newfangled electronic models has me wondering if I should just keep what I have.


Thanks in advance to anyone caring to contribute here. In closing I’ll just say that so far my Raptor has been one awesome truck but....I think it’s kind of messed up that Ford acknowledges a problem with fuse 27 and even provides a remedy kit but makes you pay for the parts and labor. So far mine appears to be holding up but just to be on the safe side I decided to stop kicking the can down the road and do it with the battery swap. All the best to everyone!

LOL...like you,I have a 5 1/2 year old battery and needing to do the #27 fuse thingy...AND also from the Peoples Republic Of NJ (originally)...
Thanks for the info about the #27 kit...didnt know they made one and was going to take to the Dealer and bend over while they did it..LOL...What did it cost you?
As far as Battery...I also looked into the Odyssey,Northstar and also the Optima...was leaning towards the North Star for sure after reading all the info and reviews....BUT...have NEVER had a problem with the top of the line Les Schwab batteries and have been using them in all my rigs for past 30 years....reason being,and I know batteries dont go bad often,but also believe in Murphys Law,and since they are located all over the USA and their service is excellent,if it does go bad,you can be up and running in a few hours.....not the same if you buy Odyssey or Northstar (Schwab does sell the Optima)....so because of all the locations and service,its Les Schwab for me.......so I'd go with the Optima or their top of the line....AND,no,I dont work for them...
Good luck.....!

 

[spost]

I replaced my Motorcraft battery after about 5 1/2 years with a yellowtop. I bought the felt pads on a whim and they work great. My truck is not a daily driver and the Optima has not failed me over 3+ years. I use a battery tender when I know it will be sitting for extended periods.

 

[KOBRA2848]

I swapped out the battery in my 2014 a little over a year ago with an Odyssey and have been pleased so much that I swapped the battery in my Shelby GTSC to an Odyssey also. I never was able to get it fully charged with my Craftsman charger or my battery tender so I bought an Odyssey charger that works great and fully charged both batteries.

Mark

 

[ninjazed]

Thanks for all the input. I think I've decided on a Odyssey battery since the Autozone down the street sells them in case something awful happens and I need to return it. I may also disregard using the 9-volt power supply and just take the chance on having to reprogram some stuff. I just don't want to take any chances with the ton of electronics on this truck. It's also going to take me a while to do the fuse 27 relocation project while the battery is out so I can't leave the truck running as was suggested.

That Odyssey charger looks real nice indeed and I'd like to pair that with the Odyssey battery but $200...for a charger? Really? I wonder if the 12-amp model for $150 would work just as well? I think I'll throw those felt rings on the terminals also. It can't hurt, right? I'll tackle this project in a few weeks and let everyone know how it works out including my pending amateur experience with ForScan!

FYI for those interested in tackling the fuse 27 project. The Motorcraft part number is WT56872 and I got mine on Amazon for about $20. It comes with instructions but I'd suggest studying this project thoroughly on the internet before cutting any wires. A small competent soldering of wires is required to complete the job also. Also, I'm stocking some extra zip-ties as it looks like some of the originals will have to be cut. Wish me luck!

 

[MEIRONMAN207]

Ditto...I did the 27/70 fuse swap. I also found the Motorcraft kit on Amazon. I second the suggestion that this should’ve been a recall Ford no cost replacement. However, I feel better that I did it carefully and well done. My battery was a dealership replacement Motorcraft in 2017. So still good avg running voltage (Tuner gauge read) 13.###v. I needed a new battery for my other Truck so I justified my new Odyssey over night shipped from California to Maine at my local Advance parts store. I was impressed. Btw., the new Odyssey battery has a running voltage 13.8## to about 14.1## volts. About an average increase of 1.###volt.