Backup lights

[crash457]

I don't understand why everyone is so afraid to use a relay. You can have the lights come on with the reverse lights or turn them on with the upfitter switch without turning on the factory backup lights (which if you want to be able to use them as dust lighting, is the best way). They aren't witchcraft. They aren't complicated. Hell, they aren't even expensive.

Get 10 of them for ~$14.00.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-5-Pin-Electrical-Relays/dp/B01KVZ2KEM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499863350&sr=8-5&keywords=5+pin+relay

 

[GrdnFrmn]

I don't understand why some like to argue. The upfitters already have relays. Unless your load exceeds the rated amps, not much reason to employ a relay where a simple diode will do the job. I used three relays and five diodes in my current set up. I'm sure other folks could find different ways to wire the same set up. If it doesn't blow fuses, fry components or light the truck on fire, it's all good.

 

[crash457]

I don't understand why some like to argue. The upfitters already have relays. Unless your load exceeds the rated amps, not much reason to employ a relay where a simple diode will do the job. I used three relays and five diodes in my current set up. I'm sure other folks could find different ways to wire the same set up. If it doesn't blow fuses, fry components or light the truck on fire, it's all good.

If you want the lights on with just the switch or just with the reverse lights, then no relay is needed, but that wasn't what was asked. If you want to power the lights with two different sources (come on with reverse and be able to active with the switch), as I explained quite clearly, then a relay is the proper way to do it. The only reason to want both is to use them for reverse lights when in reverse and also be able to run them as dust lights. If you don't want the factory reverse lights on when you use the stitch, you need a relay.

Call it arguing if you want, but the relay method is how a proper circuit is designed to work. Whether other ways work or not does not discredit that. Show me any available electronics (not some homemade shit either) that provide two power sources to the same device without the use of a relay, and I'll gladly announce that I am wrong. Until then, stop trying to discredit the right way to do something. I could understand if what I was saying was going to be expensive or difficult to do, but doing it the right way is cheap and simple. I don't' understand why so people are so opposed to it. If you want to half-ass shit together, go for it. I can't stop you, but stop trying to convince others that it's the proper way.

 

[Spartan1]

I like this ... putco blade LED light bar from putco.com. It has running lights, reverse lights, turn signals and looks pretty cool. I think that I will order one. The price seems reasonable. Does anyone have one? What do you think?

 

[lottp]

I like this ... putco blade LED light bar from putco.com. It has running lights, reverse lights, turn signals and looks pretty cool. I think that I will order one. The price seems reasonable. Does anyone have one? What do you think?

I installed the Putco Switchblade 60" light bar. Make sure you get the 92009-60 if you have the BLISS pro-trailer option.

I don't like tapping into the factory harness if I can help it, so I also got a plug-and-play harness.

CURT 7-pin plug-and-play T-Connector (P/N: 55384):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009FJ38Q/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

It plugs in-between the 7-pin connection under your truck (behind the bumper, next to the spare tire).

The attached 4-pin connector on the CURT harness plugs right in t the LED bar, then you tap in the reverse light wire to the center wire on the 7-pin portion of the same harness. Since I have the BLISS pro trailer option, I did have to do a power connection under the dash so that it wouldn't detect anything and still provide a 12V source (their included instructions show you how to do this).

Also note that if you have the remote tailgate opener, you will need to use a spacer (~0.400" thick) for the light to clear the black bracket and bolt near the right side of the tailgate where the light goes. I used some dense foam I had around. I also contacted Putco with pictures and said their R&D department would look into it.

 

[wheelman55]

I don't understand why everyone is so afraid to use a relay. You can have the lights come on with the reverse lights or turn them on with the upfitter switch without turning on the factory backup lights (which if you want to be able to use them as dust lighting, is the best way). They aren't witchcraft. They aren't complicated. Hell, they aren't even expensive.

Get 10 of them for ~$14.00.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-5-Pin-Electrical-Relays/dp/B01KVZ2KEM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499863350&sr=8-5&keywords=5+pin+relay

Mr. Crash. Where would you put the relay in the scenario above?

 

[crash457]

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 AM ----------

Mr. Crash. Where would you put the relay in the scenario above?

You could mount put it in the back or under the hood.
If you put it in the back you need to run a fused power and the trigger from the upfitter switch back to it.
If you put it under the hood you need to run the positive from the lights and a trigger from the reverse lights up to it.

I'd prefer under the hood since it is less open to the elements. Also, if you can locate a lead for the reverse lights under the hood, it means only running one wire to the back of the truck.

Connect fused power from the battery to pin 87.
Connect the lead from the upfitter switch to pin 86.
Connect the lead from the reverse lights to pin 87a.
connect the power for the lights to pin 30.
Ground pin 85.

 

[wheelman55]

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 AM ----------



You could mount put it in the back or under the hood.
If you put it in the back you need to run a fused power and the trigger from the upfitter switch back to it.
If you put it under the hood you need to run the positive from the lights and a trigger from the reverse lights up to it.

I'd prefer under the hood since it is less open to the elements. Also, if you can locate a lead for the reverse lights under the hood, it means only running one wire to the back of the truck.

Connect fused power from the battery to pin 87.
Connect the lead from the upfitter switch to pin 86.
Connect the lead from the reverse lights to pin 87a.
connect the power for the lights to pin 30.
Ground pin 85.

Thanks. Let me see if I heard you right:

Assume relay under the hood.

Pin 87 - a new wire with fuse from the battery to the relay.
Pin 86 - a new wire from upfitter switch to relay
Pin 87a - a new wire either from the back reverse lights or from same circuit upstream, meaning under the hood to the relay
Pin30 - a new wire from relay to power backup lights
Pin 85 - connected to ground
Backup lights connected to ground

OK so far?

Is there need for a diode, or does the relay do that task?

Thanks loads...it is good to talk to a knowledgeable adult

 

[crash457]

Thanks. Let me see if I heard you right:

Assume relay under the hood.

Pin 87 - a new wire with fuse from the battery to the relay.
Pin 86 - a new wire from upfitter switch to relay
Pin 87a - a new wire either from the back reverse lights or from same circuit upstream, meaning under the hood to the relay
Pin30 - a new wire from relay to power backup lights
Pin 85 - connected to ground
Backup lights connected to ground

OK so far?

Is there need for a diode, or does the relay do that task?

Thanks loads...it is good to talk to a knowledgeable adult

No need for a diode. The relay handles it all.

 

[GrdnFrmn]

That's an interesting way to wire a relay. Crash makes a great case for NOT using one in this application. Most folks run the fused battery lead to Pin 30. Pins 85/86 are for the lead from the upfitter switch to to actuate the relay switch. 87a isn't an input lead. It's an output and is normally closed when the upfitter switch is off. In other words, when 85/86 aren't on, 87a is hot out. When 85/86 are on, 87a is off and 87 is hot out to your accessory. If you hook power to 30 as intended by the relay designer, you will accomplish by hooking the OEM back up light lead to 87a is have the back up lights on continuously when the upfitter switch is off.

Crash makes a great case for a simpler wiring. Use a two in/one out diode. Power from upfitter goes in one input. Power from the OEM reverse lights go in the other. Output to the S2s or Blade or other accessory. No need to tap the battery at all. No relay required. Easy and proper wiring.