GEN 2 anyone running a 170 thermostat?

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Old-Raptor-guy

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Thank you, that's good information. I remember when people removed thermostats altogether lol, cars were less picky back then I guess.
Meh, laws of physics don't change. I just don't think people took long term life into consideration.

Also many engine designs since 1990 won't allow removal of t-stat without a coolant leak.

I agree with you, 30 years ago it was very common to see someone remove a t-stat for summer and reinstall in the fall for winter.
 

myersroofer614

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I put a 160 n and see no difference. I'm sure the guy installed it.
My transmission still hits up to 190, idk if that's connected.
I don't see any difference though. I always did this in my 5.0 foxbodys n huge differences.

I thought the same would happen here. Any ideas?
 

TwizzleStix

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The cooler thermostats are a fallacy if thought to lower actual running/loaded engine temps. The thermostat only sets the opening or MINIMUM temperature, not the running or max temp. Running temp can’t be changed without a larger radiator or at least delete the interference to smooth airflow like “shutters”, or by reducing the engine load, or by reducing the ambient air temp. Of course, if the air temp is in single digits your heater doesn’t feel so warm either unless you load the engine heavily. There’s no simple free lunch.

You can likely lower running temps by removing the thermostat like we did on racing engines back in the day, but in some cases the water moved so fast at high rpm with our tiny 2-row radiators that it didn’t have enough time to cool much. Such was life in the old(er) days.

Oh well, the only real advantage of a lower temp thermostat for our modern “performance” useage is to allow the engine temp to cool quicker after reducing the load from that loaded, normal running temp. That means when you beat it hard(!) and then slow/reduce load, it cools back down quickly as the minimum temp baseline is lower.
 

nikhsub1

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...but in some cases the water moved so fast at high rpm with our tiny 2-row radiators that it didn’t have enough time to cool much. Such was life in the old(er) days.
This is incorrect. It's a deep dive, but if you please: https://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=6385 The reason why it would get too hot without a thermostat has nothing to do with flowrate but with the radiators not being enough to cool the system.
 

TwizzleStix

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This is incorrect. It's a deep dive, but if you please: https://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=6385 The reason why it would get too hot without a thermostat has nothing to do with flowrate but with the radiators not being enough to cool the system.
Ok sure, if you say so, since you were there…. It was in 1967 on my 6cyl Camaro that ran 8.10 in the 1/8 mile. Maybe you remember it? I shifted it at 8k rpms back in the day. Broke some stuff too, but damn it was fun to kick the big guys’ asses.
 
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nikhsub1

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Ok sure, if you say so, since you were there…. It was in 1967 on my 6cyl Camaro that ran 8.10 in the 1/8 mile. Maybe you remember it? I shifted it at 8k rpms back in the day. Broke some stuff too, but damn it was fun to kick the big guys’ asses.
You must have missed the part i quoted. You inferred that water can flow “too fast and not spend enough time on the radiator” to cool well. This is the part that is incorrect. Not anything else
 

TwizzleStix

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You must have missed the part i quoted. You inferred that water can flow “too fast and not spend enough time on the radiator” to cool well. This is the part that is incorrect. Not anything else
No I understood completely. I just stand by my assertion from 1967. There was indeed water pump cavitation at that high rpm which is why I pulled the thermostat. Solved the cooling problem later by significantly slowing the water pump using same radiator. It’s all good. Maybe it was always pump cavitation, but…
 

nikhsub1

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No I understood completely. I just stand by my assertion from 1967. There was indeed water pump cavitation at that high rpm which is why I pulled the thermostat. Solved the cooling problem later by significantly slowing the water pump using same radiator. It’s all good. Maybe it was always pump cavitation, but…
Well yeah, any type of cavitation will be really bad for flow and cooling.
 
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