Any transmission guru's in here??

[BSouders80]

I'll just give the latest on my transmission. The 2nd time I got it back, all seemed to be good. Then I started feeling a catching in reverse. I thought - Maybe it's the parking brake/brakes. I replaced all rotors and pads, and installed those. No change. Adjusted the parking brake many times and no, that's not it either. So I tried to see if I could spin the tires in reverse. Nope. Slip.

When my transmission failed the 2nd time (keep in mind - Maybe 2000 miles on rebuild) - I was told that a solenoid in the (new) valve body stuck. This allowed the one way clutches burn up as well as the lower planetary failed. I sent them the transmission. I sent them another valve body. They said they covered the parts internally at their expense.

After installed a 2nd time, rear output shaft was leaking. So I spent $450 to change out a leaking $20 seal.

What could be wrong that allows slip in reverse? I spoke to a ford service tech, and he was saying something about there are different snap ring locations that can change the friction of the clutches. Is that so?

I got with Livernois and asked if they could bump the line pressure in reverse. Thinking that more pressure would equal more friction and possibly less slip. No change.

I'll be pulling the transmission a 3rd time this week and shipping it back to Florida.

 

[TomDirt]

I'll just give the latest on my transmission.

I'll be pulling the transmission a 3rd time this week and shipping it back to Florida.

I think I'd rather volunteer for a 3rd colonoscopy than remove the transmission a 3rd time.

 

[FordTechOne]

That’s pretty discouraging. Are there any other symptoms aside from slipping in reverse? When reverse in selected, the Low/Reverse clutch and direct clutch are applied. A slipping direct clutch will cause issues in 3rd and 5th as well; the low/reverse clutch is only applied in reverse and in 1st gear below 3MPH, so I’d suspect that’s where the issue lies.

The low/reverse clutch clearance needs to be measured with a depth micrometer and adjusted by selecting the appropriate thickness clutch pressure plate.

 

[BSouders80]

Only obvious symptom that I notice is in reverse. MAYBE a slight slipping in D once I shift from R to D when backing out of somewhere. But nothing in 3rd and 5th. I've had some good pulls in forward gears and I've not noticed anything else.

I have a local shop R&R the transmission. I wish they'd just charge me labor based off of how long it takes. They're getting pretty efficient at it. But still I pay book labor and that rolls up to about $900.

I sure am hoping 3rd time is the magic number. Should have been a once and done.

 

[Donovan]

Let me ask.

Does it cost more to rebuild an entire transmission internals or buy a used transmission from a wrecked raptor with low mileage. It just sounds like your transmission has ghost issues somewhere..

 

[BSouders80]

My build is not normal. I'm pushing 730 whp. My problems started when I was pulling a car trailer loaded with 4500 lb car. On the way back, tranny started acting all kinds of weird. Searching for gears. I ASSUMED that it was spent.

In reality what happened there, nothing was wrong with my transmission. The wiring harness had fell onto the header pipe and with pulling that car, I'm sure it was glowing hot. The wires in the harness got cooked and were shorting out. So when I got my first rebuild back, I did install a new harness. The shop that installed the Livernois motor gave me a $1200 shop credit for labor.

Then solenoid stuck. Crashed lower planetary and burned up the clutches. Sent the tranny back with new valve body and they rebuilt it and said it should be good. But good to me was seen as having to replace an output shaft seal. I was told that got damaged in transit, but reality is, there is no way that is possible. Half of the lip on the seal was gone. Who knows where that's floating around inside the tranny. Maybe the pan/filter, probably not. Then I noticed the catching/grabbing, which in fact is the clutches slipping.

I'm frustrated. At this point, I just want it right and it shouldn't take 3 times to get that right. My truck is my daily and holds a lot of sentimental value.

 

[BSouders80]

Long story - If you're transmission is 100% jacked, I'd try to find a low mileage salvage yard one. If they give it some kind of warranty, I'd go with it. Circle D and MS Racing are both in the neighborhood of $6500-$7500. Circle D has longer lead time.

 

[CleverGirl_]

Lets see that powerplant

 

[BSouders80]

Here you go.

 

[BSouders80]

I've went through the suspension since then. BKZ upper control arms, BKZ tie rod kit, new tie rods, new bushings, camber delete kit, fox 3.0 Gen 2 DSC up front, 3.0 Bypasses in the back. I have deaver +3's to install on the back, but my drop shackles just shipped. RPG traction bars will be adjusted when the deavers go on. Then maybe I'll take it back to the track and see what it will do. Wheel hop was so bad on round 1 that I just tucked my tail and disappeared.