Any body elses raptor have special abilities?

[rschap1]

Good luck figuring it out, getting fix, and hopefully more fun in the truck

 

[9th Island raptor]

I hate to inform you, but your truck is a liberal and possibly transitioning . Every time you want it to work, it starts blowing smoke out it’s a$$. You can confirm by driving by any thrift store or welfare office. This will save the the ford tech embarrassment during diagnosis. Tell them, you want it stock again. To prevent it from reoccurring, just add a trump sticker.

Hahaha just looked under the truck I was sold a tranny. Someone chop its shit off before I bought it. Shame on me for not doing my due diligence. A Trump sticker would guarantee straighten this shit out!

 

[9th Island raptor]

I called the dealer thinking of maybe trading it in for newer model. But i can't come to terms with letting my raptor go.. i was blessed to get the exact trim, color, and year that i wanted. Im not putting down all other gens they are gorgeous in there own right and we all have our taste and the 2019 was my truck of choice. I really don't care for the design of the newer trucks. Im gonna hold out and hope that this can and will be an easy fix.. it would kill me to let it go. I drove her over 15,000 miles in the last 4 months alone. So this morning I decided to go out and take a good look. I tried posting vid of the smoking but I couldn't upload it. It wasn't that bad this morning anyway so it wasn't much of a vid of the issue. But this morning it was literally smoke free until I dropped off my kid and got home. Then I noticed the smoke starting up again. This is what I noticed. the right exhaust pipe has absolutely no smoke everything is happening on the left side. And in the left exhaust was this wet black shiny grime. The right side was just plain dry with dirt. None of this black stuff what so ever. Thoughts?

 

[Snuggles]

I recently went through this pretty heavily with my wife's '14 Explorer Sport (3.5L TT, same engine). I learned a few things, some are very easy to test:

1) Watch this video:

He calls it a PCV valve, but it's actually a crankcase vent. VERY common problem depending on the year. The correct one is green, not black. It's an $18 part at the dealer and will take less than five minutes to swap if you have a 24mm DEEP socket. I had to use a crescent wrench so it took me about 10-minutes and some scraped knuckles.

Part number was HL2Z-6762-A on my explorer, but may be different for different years and models (the dealer will need your VIN to verify).
Looks like this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-elbow-hl2z6762a

It is a crankcase vent that for some reason allows a lot of oil to be fed into the intake. The new crankcase vent corrects this which is green instead of black and has a smaller hole.

2) Check your PCV valve, or even just replace it just in case. The newest versions are brown. When you take it off it should easily "rattle" when you shake it. If it's sticky at all you can clean it with some MAF sensor cleaner, or just buy a new one - they are cheap.

3) Crankcase pressure for some other reason. You can pop out your dipstick, or loosen your oil cap and see if the smoking stops (or doesn't build while idling). You can drive that way to test it, but you might get oil spatter on your engine bay. If it takes 30-minutes to build pressure I would idle with my dipstick and cap loose, but put them in right before taking off. If it doesn't smoke, your next job will be determining what is causing the pressure buildup (assuming #1 and 2 above were addressed).

4) Oil flooding your intercooler/charge pipes. This is more common than I ever knew in turbo vehicles. Oil accumulates over time, and if you are idling for a while it can build up to become a noticeable plume. There are Subaru videos of people dumping a half quart out of their intercoolers.

5) This could also be leaking turbos and can be a huge deal or none at all. This could be caused by crankcase pressure (#1 trough 3 above) pushing oil past, or a literally failing turbo. You would get a CEL code if you had low boost typically, and failing turbos often whine or rattle. Idling for a while can allow oil to drip past into the intake charge pipes but the engine isn't going fast enough to burn it off, so once you start driving it smokes (from either crankcase pressure or failed seals or just normal operation).

If the crankcase pressure test doesn't fix it, you can check this by popping off the intake charge pipe at the turbos when the engine is cold (the rubber ones attached with a hose clamp) and see if oil comes out. Careful, if you have a leaking turbo a LOT can come out - don't stain your driveway.


Follow up questions:
- does your truck smoke after a "cold soak" - i.e. sitting overnight, does it smoke on startup (not water vapor from condensation, but stinky oil smoke). Since the turbos are mounted low oil doesn't drain away from them when sitting, so if there is a bad seal it can leak past during the night and you get a plume upon startup as it burns off.
- have you noticed any lag or sluggishness? That could be an indication of low boost and a failing turbo. The day before my wifes turbo failed I thought she had a transmission issue.


As others have said, it could also be coolant, which has a gross sweetish smell. That would be a head gasket, cracked head/block, or several other not-good things. I feel that is unlikely considering these engines have several "issues" that can cause oil smoke.

Mine ended up being a turbo, which was expensive. The turbo seals didn't fail, however. The nut came off the impeller shaft and destroyed everything at 78k miles.





If it is your turbo, you can use it as an excuse for a nice upgrade. Bang for the buck, I would install upgraded CHRA's from https://crpengineering.com/product-category/chra-core/ . It's basically the center part of the turbo that houses all of the moving parts. You would re-use the OEM housings and save a ton of money. It's not that hard to do - all of the effort is in getting the turbos out, which is a PITA.

Good luck.

 

[Snuggles]

Also, too much oil in the engine can cause crankcase pressure. Just make sure it's not overfilled.

If you do have to replace your turbo, make sure you also replace the oil feed line. It supposedly has a filter or screen in it (not sure). A clogged feed line is apparently a major cause of turbo failures.

 

[Tbogo]

My idling was while waiting to pick up my daughter as well. I just stopped idling it. Not ideal when it is 100 degrees outside. The part that was frustrating for me is that the truck would only idle for 15 minutes and then shut off on its own. That means that the mechanics at the dealership probably only let it idle for 15 minutes and came back 30 minutes later to start it only to find that it did not smoke. I know they can't just sit there and look at it for 30 minutes as that is not a great use of time. That 15 minutes might be able to be upped by using the Fordpass App to remote start, but I don't know that for sure on the Gen2. I just know it is an option on the Gen3.

My 2020 gen2 also had a white smoking issue at 29K (bought it used with 28.5K) ONLY when idling about 30-45 min in my driveway on a cold day learning/playing with all the stuff I could do with settings and all. Stepped on the throttle a bit and it smoked a little more then stopped and no smell I could determine. Haven't seen it do it again since with 41K now on it but haven't let it idle for that long again. Told my stealership about it and they could not duplicate the issue. Oil and coolant fluid levels were OK.

 

[9th Island raptor]

I recently went through this pretty heavily with my wife's '14 Explorer Sport (3.5L TT, same engine). I learned a few things, some are very easy to test:

1) Watch this video:

He calls it a PCV valve, but it's actually a crankcase vent. VERY common problem depending on the year. The correct one is green, not black. It's an $18 part at the dealer and will take less than five minutes to swap if you have a 24mm DEEP socket. I had to use a crescent wrench so it took me about 10-minutes and some scraped knuckles.

Part number was HL2Z-6762-A on my explorer, but may be different for different years and models (the dealer will need your VIN to verify).
Looks like this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-elbow-hl2z6762a

It is a crankcase vent that for some reason allows a lot of oil to be fed into the intake. The new crankcase vent corrects this which is green instead of black and has a smaller hole.

2) Check your PCV valve, or even just replace it just in case. The newest versions are brown. When you take it off it should easily "rattle" when you shake it. If it's sticky at all you can clean it with some MAF sensor cleaner, or just buy a new one - they are cheap.

3) Crankcase pressure for some other reason. You can pop out your dipstick, or loosen your oil cap and see if the smoking stops (or doesn't build while idling). You can drive that way to test it, but you might get oil spatter on your engine bay. If it takes 30-minutes to build pressure I would idle with my dipstick and cap loose, but put them in right before taking off. If it doesn't smoke, your next job will be determining what is causing the pressure buildup (assuming #1 and 2 above were addressed).

4) Oil flooding your intercooler/charge pipes. This is more common than I ever knew in turbo vehicles. Oil accumulates over time, and if you are idling for a while it can build up to become a noticeable plume. There are Subaru videos of people dumping a half quart out of their intercoolers.

5) This could also be leaking turbos and can be a huge deal or none at all. This could be caused by crankcase pressure (#1 trough 3 above) pushing oil past, or a literally failing turbo. You would get a CEL code if you had low boost typically, and failing turbos often whine or rattle. Idling for a while can allow oil to drip past into the intake charge pipes but the engine isn't going fast enough to burn it off, so once you start driving it smokes (from either crankcase pressure or failed seals or just normal operation).

If the crankcase pressure test doesn't fix it, you can check this by popping off the intake charge pipe at the turbos when the engine is cold (the rubber ones attached with a hose clamp) and see if oil comes out. Careful, if you have a leaking turbo a LOT can come out - don't stain your driveway.


Follow up questions:
- does your truck smoke after a "cold soak" - i.e. sitting overnight, does it smoke on startup (not water vapor from condensation, but stinky oil smoke). Since the turbos are mounted low oil doesn't drain away from them when sitting, so if there is a bad seal it can leak past during the night and you get a plume upon startup as it burns off.
- have you noticed any lag or sluggishness? That could be an indication of low boost and a failing turbo. The day before my wifes turbo failed I thought she had a transmission issue.


As others have said, it could also be coolant, which has a gross sweetish smell. That would be a head gasket, cracked head/block, or several other not-good things. I feel that is unlikely considering these engines have several "issues" that can cause oil smoke.

Mine ended up being a turbo, which was expensive. The turbo seals didn't fail, however. The nut came off the impeller shaft and destroyed everything at 78k miles.


View attachment 376710


If it is your turbo, you can use it as an excuse for a nice upgrade. Bang for the buck, I would install upgraded CHRA's from https://crpengineering.com/product-category/chra-core/ . It's basically the center part of the turbo that houses all of the moving parts. You would re-use the OEM housings and save a ton of money. It's not that hard to do - all of the effort is in getting the turbos out, which is a PITA.

Good luck.

Right on! this looks right on the money with what's happening. Thanks! im gonna try to attack this on the weekend. Following all the bread crums was leading me to the pcv valve. I just found out that all of fords ecoboost engines does this and its not limited to the raptor. ‍ time to get to get the hands dirty. Later I need to address the cranking noise at start up. Sounds like world War 3 under the hood when I start it up in the morning. Crank noise is crazy loud.

 

[Tbogo]

Right on! this looks right on the money with what's happening. Thanks! im gonna try to attack this on the weekend. Following all the bread crums was leading me to the pcv valve. I just found out that all of fords ecoboost engines does this and its not limited to the raptor. ‍ time to get to get the hands dirty. Later I need to address the cranking noise at start up. Sounds like world War 3 under the hood when I start it up in the morning. Crank noise is crazy loud.

The new sound at startup is most likely the infamous Cam Phaser issue.

 

[9th Island raptor]

My 2020 gen2 also had a white smoking issue at 29K (bought it used with 28.5K) ONLY when idling about 30-45 min in my driveway on a cold day learning/playing with all the stuff I could do with settings and all. Stepped on the throttle a bit and it smoked a little more then stopped and no smell I could determine. Haven't seen it do it again since with 41K now on it but haven't let it idle for that long again. Told my stealership about it and they could not duplicate the issue. Oil and coolant fluid levels were OK.

Hahahaha stealership

I recently went through this pretty heavily with my wife's '14 Explorer Sport (3.5L TT, same engine). I learned a few things, some are very easy to test:

1) Watch this video:

He calls it a PCV valve, but it's actually a crankcase vent. VERY common problem depending on the year. The correct one is green, not black. It's an $18 part at the dealer and will take less than five minutes to swap if you have a 24mm DEEP socket. I had to use a crescent wrench so it took me about 10-minutes and some scraped knuckles.

Part number was HL2Z-6762-A on my explorer, but may be different for different years and models (the dealer will need your VIN to verify).
Looks like this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-elbow-hl2z6762a

It is a crankcase vent that for some reason allows a lot of oil to be fed into the intake. The new crankcase vent corrects this which is green instead of black and has a smaller hole.

2) Check your PCV valve, or even just replace it just in case. The newest versions are brown. When you take it off it should easily "rattle" when you shake it. If it's sticky at all you can clean it with some MAF sensor cleaner, or just buy a new one - they are cheap.

3) Crankcase pressure for some other reason. You can pop out your dipstick, or loosen your oil cap and see if the smoking stops (or doesn't build while idling). You can drive that way to test it, but you might get oil spatter on your engine bay. If it takes 30-minutes to build pressure I would idle with my dipstick and cap loose, but put them in right before taking off. If it doesn't smoke, your next job will be determining what is causing the pressure buildup (assuming #1 and 2 above were addressed).

4) Oil flooding your intercooler/charge pipes. This is more common than I ever knew in turbo vehicles. Oil accumulates over time, and if you are idling for a while it can build up to become a noticeable plume. There are Subaru videos of people dumping a half quart out of their intercoolers.

5) This could also be leaking turbos and can be a huge deal or none at all. This could be caused by crankcase pressure (#1 trough 3 above) pushing oil past, or a literally failing turbo. You would get a CEL code if you had low boost typically, and failing turbos often whine or rattle. Idling for a while can allow oil to drip past into the intake charge pipes but the engine isn't going fast enough to burn it off, so once you start driving it smokes (from either crankcase pressure or failed seals or just normal operation).

If the crankcase pressure test doesn't fix it, you can check this by popping off the intake charge pipe at the turbos when the engine is cold (the rubber ones attached with a hose clamp) and see if oil comes out. Careful, if you have a leaking turbo a LOT can come out - don't stain your driveway.


Follow up questions:
- does your truck smoke after a "cold soak" - i.e. sitting overnight, does it smoke on startup (not water vapor from condensation, but stinky oil smoke). Since the turbos are mounted low oil doesn't drain away from them when sitting, so if there is a bad seal it can leak past during the night and you get a plume upon startup as it burns off.
- have you noticed any lag or sluggishness? That could be an indication of low boost and a failing turbo. The day before my wifes turbo failed I thought she had a transmission issue.


As others have said, it could also be coolant, which has a gross sweetish smell. That would be a head gasket, cracked head/block, or several other not-good things. I feel that is unlikely considering these engines have several "issues" that can cause oil smoke.

Mine ended up being a turbo, which was expensive. The turbo seals didn't fail, however. The nut came off the impeller shaft and destroyed everything at 78k miles.


View attachment 376710


If it is your turbo, you can use it as an excuse for a nice upgrade. Bang for the buck, I would install upgraded CHRA's from https://crpengineering.com/product-category/chra-core/ . It's basically the center part of the turbo that houses all of the moving parts. You would re-use the OEM housings and save a ton of money. It's not that hard to do - all of the effort is in getting the turbos out, which is a PITA.

Good luck.

- does your truck smoke after a "cold soak" - i.e. sitting overnight, does it smoke on startup? nope doesn't smoke during cold start.

- have you noticed any lag or sluggishness? No not really truck still responsive.

 

[Scottx]

Looks like your burning transmission fluid. Vacuum seal may have failed that goes from engine to transmission