Another Outlaw Hood mount thread. Easy one man job edition!

[OneArmedViolinist]

I started by reading the original http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f81/hood-light-mounts-install-walk-thru-lots-o-pics-9705/ and took the excellent advice of removing the hood struts here
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f81/outlaw-hood-mounts-hidx-lights-alternative-off-road-10845/.

I tried to take pictures but I did this on my lunch break and it was slowing me down. The other threads cover the basics but I didn't recall seeing the steps I used. I was a little concerned that this was going to be a pain in the ass but it wound up being super easy so I wanted to post my basic steps to accomplish this in very little time with no additional help on hand. I didn't need a second person, blankets to pad anything, towels to shove down that big hole in the fender (but I may have been playing with fire there...), or specialized fasteners that require modification.

The other threads show how to modify the plastic cowling so that took about 5 minutes per side with a dremel. I used some blue painters tape to protect the paint on the hood for this step and left it there because when you are wrenching on the back bolt, you may get a little contact with the hood.

After the platic was cut away, I opened the hood and went to work. 3/8" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket and a 6" extension is required and an small slot screw driver to pop off the struts. The secret ingredient for me was a broom handle to prop the hood up.

I started on the passenger side but you could start on either side. With the hood fully opened as normal, I used the small screw driver to pop the strut off. If you aren't familiar with this, there's a little metal band that you need to pry away just slightly. A little bit of pressure on the strut should have it popping right off. I did the side that mounts to the hood first. With only one strut to support the hood, it may or may not stay open but it won't come crashing down on your head. Have the broom handle in arms reach and slowly lower the hood so it doesn't slam down. Use the broom handle to prop the hood open. I just wedged it near the existing hood latch points. This held the hood probably 2/3 open so there was plenty of room left to work. At this point I removed the strut completely by popping off the part that was still mounted to the frame. Technically you can fold it out of the way on the passenger side but it's easy enough to just remove and you will need to remove it competely on the driver side.

With the strut completely removed and the hood propped open enough to get access to the front hood mount bolt, I removed it completely. Then you remove the broom handle and close the hood. I didn't latch it completely because I was concerned that it might pull the hood out of alignment somehow. So at this point, the hood is closed but not latched, the strut is removed and the back bolt is still factory tight.

When you cut the plastic cownling away, it's going to leave room to get to the back hood mount bolt when the hood is closed so now you can access that with the 6" extension. Remove that bolt completely. The hood wil not shift at all.

Slide the light mount in from behind the hood while it's still closed. There's plenty of room to do this. Start the back bolt and snug it up. Once it's a little snug, check to make sure the mount is aligned with the front bolt hole. It's pretty easy to see but a flashlight helps. Once you see that the front bolt is going to drop in place, tighten down the back bolt the rest of the way.

With the back bolt tight, prop open the hood with the broom stick again. Now install the front bolt. (If for some reason the mount shifted and the holes don't line up, you can just go back to the last step and loosen the back one a bit to move the mount into the correct position. That would be a bit of a pain in the ass but the alternative is to leave the back one a little loose so you can move the mount around when you open the hood again but I didn't want to risk the hood shifting with the opening and closing so I just cranked down on it before installing the front bolt and didn't have any issues.) With the front bolt installed, pop the strut back on the frame and open the hood fully, then pop the strut onto the hood.

Lather, rinse, repeat on the other side. This was super easy. I left my office, picked up lunch, ate it, let the dog out to take a leak, and completed this in barely over an hour. I was dreading this install but it was simple. Mounting the actual lights was more of a pain in the ass because there's not a lot of room for the nuts/washers to fit between the mount and cowling. I used some blue painter's tape to hold the nut/lock washer/washer together so I could jam them under there and get the light started. To tighten the light, I had to hold the bolt while turning the light. I haven't wired them up but once I do, I'm not looking forward to aiming them. Whatyagonnadothough?

Anyhow. Wanted to share the steps I took since I was greatly relieved how easy this was. If Outlaw posted this method on their instructions, I think they'd drum up a few more sales because many people don't have access to someone to help them. Had I know it was going to been this easy, I wouldn't have put it off for so long...

Thanks so much for the instructions..... now I feel better about getting it done right!

 

[LSURaptor]

It really is easy. I fretted about it for weeks and then once I sat down and thought about it, I figured this was fool proof. Well, I'm a fool and there's proof that it works ...

 

[OneArmedViolinist]

Here are some ****** pics. I just uploaded them to a web album. Didn't feel like taking the time to format them and post in any particular order. I also didn't take many detailed pics as I was working because it would have taken too long. If I had someone else there to snap pics, it would have been more feasible. Then again, if I had someone else there, I wouldn't have needed a broom stick!

https://picasaweb.google.com/clschwartz/Raptor#

There are a few other random pics in there, just ignore them...

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:05 PM ----------



I marked them too because I thought I'd need it but it turns out I didn't have to reaqdjust anything.

I haven't wired the lights up yet but they look good just sitting there and that's what's really important, right?!?!?

lol true.... true

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------

It really is easy. I fretted about it for weeks and then once I sat down and thought about it, I figured this was fool proof. Well, I'm a fool and there's proof that it works ...

You know that huge hole that drops into the front fender that you stuffed a towel in to protect things from going down?..... Well.... I used a micro fiber cloth that was to small and it actually fell down there. I had to take the light bracket off that I just installed..... then shove a Shop Vac hose down there and luckily it picked it up way down at the bottom. Im not sure it would harm anything but I didnt want that thing down there getting wet and moldy. Anyway, I got the brackets on and they look great, now I have to get the lights on........ hopefully nothing falls down that huge ass "Cavern" again!

 

[OneArmedViolinist]

It really is easy. I fretted about it for weeks and then once I sat down and thought about it, I figured this was fool proof. Well, I'm a fool and there's proof that it works ...

Did you get a chance to wiring them yet?.... I have mine bolted on and they look sweet, but I'm a bit perplexed with the wiring setup. Mine are Vision X HID's that come with their own ballast and relay. I read somewhere that you dont have to use all of that because the Raptor has it built in..... hmmmmm I have a 40" Rigid Bar and D2's upfront and I just used the two wires but since these Vision X's are HID's I dont know what to do!

 

[Rotpar]

Just wanted to say thank you LSURaptor, your directions made it very easy to install the claws.

One side note, if you try to cut the plastic cowling when it is cold, the plastic will shatter. I ended up putting a box cutter blade in a set of vise grips and using a small propane torch to heat the blade. It cuts through the plastic like butter and made a nice clean cut.

 

[Blind1]

Rot that's an excellent tip.

 

[puddle hunter]

One side note, if you try to cut the plastic cowling when it is cold, the plastic will shatter.

GEEZUS! How cold was it!!??

 

[Rotpar]

Was only around 30, didn't seem cold enough to make that cowling as brittle as it was.

 

[LSURaptor]

Did you get a chance to wiring them yet?.... I have mine bolted on and they look sweet, but I'm a bit perplexed with the wiring setup. Mine are Vision X HID's that come with their own ballast and relay. I read somewhere that you dont have to use all of that because the Raptor has it built in..... hmmmmm I have a 40" Rigid Bar and D2's upfront and I just used the two wires but since these Vision X's are HID's I dont know what to do!

Heh, they are half wired... I haven't done the upfitter wiring under the dash yet.

I'm not sure about your particular lights but I can still try to answer the question I think... On my lights, the ballasts are internal to the light housing. I believe yours are the same. Regardless, you will need ballasts.

The relay isn't necessarily required though. The upfitter switches are fine to wire directly to the light with a few caveats. From left to right, the 4 switches decrease in their ability to handle power. Don't quote me but I think it's 25a, 20a, 15a, 10a. I'm almost sure that's not exactly right but the point is that the last one on the right can handle the least amount of power. I don't know how much the Vision-X's draw at startup. Running load would be fine on any of the switches but it's possible they would breifly draw more current than the rightmost switch could handle without the relay. The LED lights you run don't have that same power draw when they fire up so any of the switches can be wired up to those directly. I doubt that you'd get a straight answer out of anyone on startup current so the "best" way to do it is to still use the relay and pull power directly from the battery if you are going to use that right most switch. I believe any of the other switches would be safe to skip the relay though. I planned on testing it when I finally get around to finishing it all up. For now I have the relay in place but it's easy to bypass it for testing. I'll report back once I get off my lazy ass and finish the project...

 

[Killjohnathan]

Heh, they are half wired... I haven't done the upfitter wiring under the dash yet.

I'm not sure about your particular lights but I can still try to answer the question I think... On my lights, the ballasts are internal to the light housing. I believe yours are the same. Regardless, you will need ballasts.

The relay isn't necessarily required though. The upfitter switches are fine to wire directly to the light with a few caveats. From left to right, the 4 switches decrease in their ability to handle power. Don't quote me but I think it's 25a, 20a, 15a, 10a. I'm almost sure that's not exactly right but the point is that the last one on the right can handle the least amount of power. I don't know how much the Vision-X's draw at startup. Running load would be fine on any of the switches but it's possible they would breifly draw more current than the rightmost switch could handle without the relay. The LED lights you run don't have that same power draw when they fire up so any of the switches can be wired up to those directly. I doubt that you'd get a straight answer out of anyone on startup current so the "best" way to do it is to still use the relay and pull power directly from the battery if you are going to use that right most switch. I believe any of the other switches would be safe to skip the relay though. I planned on testing it when I finally get around to finishing it all up. For now I have the relay in place but it's easy to bypass it for testing. I'll report back once I get off my lazy ass and finish the project...

Any update on this?