funkified
Full Access Member
if that is the case then theyre junk for sure!Those things are extremely bad. We have a refinish process but the corers of the resi and the aluminum cap may be shot when you start tearing into those things.
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if that is the case then theyre junk for sure!Those things are extremely bad. We have a refinish process but the corers of the resi and the aluminum cap may be shot when you start tearing into those things.
Following... Any update on front end clunk after replacing parts??? Im in similar situation with front end clunk and bump steer. Rebuilt all shocks by TSW. All new tie rods, New lower ball joints, new sway bar stabilizer links, and new wheel hubs. Still searching for clunk......I know, I know another thread about a gen1 front end rebuild Ill try to keep it short.
I have a 2013 SCAB with 240,000 kms
End goal of build, eliminate the front end clunking, refresh old tired parts to make a tight, reliable daily driver. I'd like to eliminate some of the bump steer, but not sure if the SVC or RPG tie rods are in the cards right now. Primary focus is on the front end, rear leafs will come another time.
Would like to say I'll take this offroad at some point for some trail riding, but no guarantees lol
I have bought the following:
OEM replacement Fox Shocks Part number ASH24542 and ASH12262 (SCAB specific)
Eibach springs - E30-35-042-01-20
Shock mounts x 2 - AL3Z-18A099-A
Upper insulators x 2 - 7L1Z-5415-A
Mounting brackets x 2 - AL3Z-18183-A
Sway bar links x 2 - AL3Z-5K483-A
Front lower ball joint was replaced recently already with a MOOG part.
So now Im looking at the UCA's. Is there a upgraded OEM+ UCA that is not $1500-2000? Or should I just go OEM and call it day?
Does it clunk when you go over a bump or when you turn a corner? Over a bump could be your lower shock bolt isn't torqued to 425ftlbs, around a corner could be iwe engaging/disengaging and/or cv axle binding.Following... Any update on front end clunk after replacing parts??? Im in similar situation with front end clunk and bump steer. Rebuilt all shocks by TSW. All new tie rods, New lower ball joints, new sway bar stabilizer links, and new wheel hubs. Still searching for clunk......
Just over smaller bumps at lower speeds when its most noticeable. (driving straight) That lower shock bolt was the first thing I checked and got my local shop to torque prior to replacing parts.Does it clunk when you go over a bump or when you turn a corner? Over a bump could be your lower shock bolt isn't torqued to 425ftlbs, around a corner could be iwe engaging/disengaging and/or cv axle binding.
Yup been doing this for 4 years now. In the summer I coat them with fluid film, and in winter I smother the underside and wheel wells and absolutely no rust/corrosion anywhereDefinitely support the Wool Wax / Fluid Film recommendation. I’ve been spraying a coat on 2-3 times a year and it works some magic against preventing corrosion. View attachment 347882
Yup been doing this for 4 years now. In the summer I coat them with fluid film, and in winter I smother the underside and wheel wells and absolutely no rust/corrosion anywhere
check the shock shaft nut on the top of the hat. mine was clunking and rattling at slow speed over bumps and found the nut was super loose on top.Just over smaller bumps at lower speeds when its most noticeable. (driving straight) That lower shock bolt was the first thing I checked and got my local shop to torque prior to replacing parts.
I hope that is the case. I will check it out this weekend and get back to you. Thanks for the all the suggestions.check the shock shaft nut on the top of the hat. mine was clunking and rattling at slow speed over bumps and found the nut was super loose on top.