Amsoil mphd heavy duty metal protector (amh)

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

Ok, I have more info on the comparison. More impression than info but here it is. The Amsoil MPHD is almost cured completely. It is not tacky to the touch except in places where I got it too thick and it ran. In the places where it ran, I removed a little with my finger nail and it was thick and waxy. But it has not attracted or held onto any dust, dirt or anything else.

The LPS3 is still very sticky and or tacky to the touch. It also still has the foamy texture I spoke of before. To the extent that it is almost the consistency of axle grease. It has not held any dirt or dust. I have my doubts about the viability of the LPS3 as an undercoat.

The ACF-50, while initially spraying on with a purple tint, has completely cleared, but hasn't dried at all. It is still as greasy and wet as it was when first sprayed. It has also collected everything floating in the air from a nat to dust, dirt, etc. If it does cure, I am not sure anyone would want to have their truck sit in the shop, garage or driveway while they wait for it to cure. I originally said that maybe this one could be used on chrome, but I wouldn't use it on anything of mine that is chrome.

Here are some pics.

ACF-50 with trash

LPS3 You can see how the foaming action lifted the top of the sharpie ink and moved it.

The three of them together. As you can see, the Amsoil still hasn't changed color. That being said, as you can see here I sprayed a good coating of the products on each piece. Not sure if it was too much or not.

Here you can see where I took some of the Amsoil off of the run and what it looked like, sorry for the bad pics.

Stay tuned.......

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

Ok, I set my current test pieces out in the elements a week and a half ago. The Amsoil MPHD hardened but never did really clear up much. Amsoil's website says that the protector "carrier" will clear as it evaporates, but I found that, especially if sprayed on liberally, it may take a while for that to happen.

The LPS3 has yet to truly harden, it still has a texture kind of like a spongy, tacky, sticky film that is easily manipulated with wiping a finger across it. It also collects and holds onto the smaller rust and dirt particles in the air more than the other two so far.

The ACF-50 has yet to dry or cure at all, it stays wet with a greasy film. The only real positives to this so far are that the light rust coverage from part of the test procedure I used was easily cleaned off with a paper towel. It also spread to the sides of the metal better than Amsoil or LPS3, but I will explain a little further. It is also the best looking sample thus far.


In order from left to right:

LPS3 - AMSOIL MPHD - ACF-50 - UNPROTECTED CONTROL

Now for my current test procedure. I sprayed the front and back of the metal pieces while purposely avoiding the "sides". I did this because when using a spray product as under coating, there may be quite a few spots that you just can't get to effectively, thus leaving these areas unprotected. I wanted to test how well the products spread after being sprayed, to see if they would spread to the sides of the pieces and help to protect them as well. So far the ACF-50 wins this part of the test because it is the only product that spread across the metal to the sides providing any protection for the sides. The AMSOIL and LPS3 both spread a little, but not like the ACF-50, so they both have spotty rusting on the sides.

After applying the products I allowed them a week to cure in my shop at an average temperature of about 70*F to make sure they had ample opportunity to do so and to test how long someone would have to wait for the to cure before being able to drive their vehicle. The AMSOIL Dried to the touch within about 12 hours and was completely cured within 24 hours while the other two never really cured at all. The LPS3 continue to have a sticky texture while the ACF-50 remains greasy to the touch and easily slides around on the metal.

When I put them out in the elements I wanted to make the environment as harsh as possible right from the start. I used a saw horse and kept one end of the pieces up on a ledge so to speak while leaving the other end sitting in a salt water solution. I wanted to not only test how well the products protected against their pieces starting their own rust, I wanted to look at how well they repelled rust being produced from the control piece. As you can see from the images, the control is WELL on it's way to full corrosion and you can also tell where the water level stayed for the most part. While submerged, all three products protected well the metal underneath well against new rust forming on the metal itself, even with rust from the control piece floating through the water and completely covering the others. You can see in the images how well protected they are where I wiped (in the case of the Amsoil "dug") to remove the top layer that was covered with the control piece rust from the water.I did notice that the LPS3 likes to hold onto the floating rust.


The bottom side, from left LPS3 - AMSOIL - ACF-50.

Obviously, the ACF-50 looks the best, and for this part of the testing, the floating rust coverage was easily wiped off of it. But I am wondering if that is going to be something that is temporary. I am thinking that with prolonged exposure to the elemental environment underneath a vehicle, especially offroad, will it survive long at all.

Below are the other current images, the thing to remember is that I didn't wipe or clean far enough down through the protectors to get to bare metal when attempting to remove the floating rust film on the pieces. Like stated above, the ACF-50 wiped clean better than the other two, but it also left what seems to be the least protector in the cleaned spot after wiped. I only used a dry blue shop paper towel to wipe them. The cleaned part of the Amsoil still has a "hard" layer of protector under the wiped area, and the LPS3 still has some of the sticky film left where it was wiped.

LPS3 after cleaning off some of the floating rust

AMSOIL after cleaning off some of the floating rust

ACF-50 after cleaning the floating rust.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

so, my question, where did this floating rust come from?

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

The "floating" rust came from the rust from the control piece floating in the water that the pieces were sitting in.

 

[Mike Hammer]

The water/salt seems to clean the product off. That was a problem in the 1st test and it was water and heat.

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

I am watching now to see if actual corrosion occurs on the spots I cleaned. Not actually sitting in the water like before, I do not want contamination from the control getting on them this time. Now that they have been exposed and then cleaned I want to see how much protection is left.

I will then be putting them directly in the dirt and leaving them there for a few days. I want to find out how much each product collects or repels dirt.

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

Ok, they are in the dirt now. But below are more results for the testing. Soaking in salt water isn't good for any of them. Once you wipe off any of it they go right to rusting where they were in the water. The rust from the untreated sides also seems to spread under the coated areas on them all. More so on the LPS3 and ACF-50 than on the Amsoil MPHD. So, unless you park your truck in the ocean every night you should be alright no matter which product you choose and no matter what you choose, make sure to get in the tight spots as much as possible to avoid rust working it's way under the protector.

The LPS3, if left undisturbed would be the best in my opinion for applications that see a lot of salt water. It is the one that had the foamy texture. This one was able to keep the rust away from the bare metal at first, but once disturbed or wiped, it was done, protection over.

ACF-50 works GREAT as a hing lubricant, etc. It spreads really well and protects well if left alone, but once it spends some time in the elements, it picks up anything and everything floating around in the air. For this reason I have serious doubts about using it as an undercoating.

The Amsoil MPHD performed well everywhere except for in the salt water. Like the others, repeated exposure to the salt water made removing it extremely easy and once removed or wiped off it loses all protective qualities. That being said, it was the only one that was actually clean once the floating rust mentioned was removed; in a nutshell it was actually able to continue protecting against the elements as long as it was cleand after soaking in the salt water. It has also remained hard and the only places that have developed rust are those that have been "damaged" or where the protector was removed due to moving it around, etc.

Take your pic, they are all good metal protectors.

 

[Humvee21]

Man, those are some very interesting results. I appreciate your time in doing this for us!

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

They have been out in the elements about 3-4 weeks now. The thing to keep in mind is that they weren't in the regular elements alone. I immediately began soaking them daily with salt water to find out for sure how each would hold up, in an attempt to simulate winter conditions in areas that see a lot of road salt. I highly doubt that you will see conditions anywhere near as harsh as those I imposed, anywhere in the real world, but that was the point I guess. Make sure to throw as much as possible at them and see if they hold up.

They have been in the dirt for two days now and I am going to take them out and clean them off tomorrow to simulate offroad protection. Unless I miss my guess, the LPS3 and ACF-50 are going to hold onto the dirt, but we'll see.

 

[Mike Hammer]

After applying the products I allowed them a week to cure in my shop at an average temperature of about 70*F to make sure they had ample opportunity to do so and to test how long someone would have to wait for the to cure before being able to drive their vehicle. The AMSOIL Dried to the touch within about 12 hours and was completely cured within 24 hours while the other two never really cured at all. The LPS3 continue to have a sticky texture while the ACF-50 remains greasy to the touch and easily slides around on the metal.

The LPS3, if left undisturbed would be the best in my opinion for applications that see a lot of salt water. It is the one that had the foamy texture. This one was able to keep the rust away from the bare metal at first, but once disturbed or wiped, it was done, protection over.

ACF-50 works GREAT as a hing lubricant, etc. It spreads really well and protects well if left alone, but once it spends some time in the elements, it picks up anything and everything floating around in the air. For this reason I have serious doubts about using it as an undercoating.

The Amsoil MPHD performed well everywhere except for in the salt water. Like the others, repeated exposure to the salt water made removing it extremely easy and once removed or wiped off it loses all protective qualities.

I did the first test, I do not agree with your findings, first off anything that stays wet has not adhered itself to the metal, it will be washed off. Thats the results I got in my first test. The biggest offender the fluid flim.

If your truck hits snow, goes thru normal rain or goes off road, your ship has sank with those wet products.

Also when I tried to get the products off after the test the Amsoil was the only on that put up a fight with the obital sander, it was stuck on like glue. Right now as an undercoat the Amsoil wins hands down. Those wet products seem good for indoor applications only. They have no bussiness as a Raptor undercoat.

I am going to try to start my new test in a few weeks. I have added eezox because of the impressive results of this test. But thats just added for the gun people, its no under coat if it stays wet. But could be great for storage of guns. Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage