Aftermarket Tie Rods Causing Rack and Pinion Failure

[Deleted member 12951]

So does this mean Gen 1s won’t have this issue?

Correct. Plenty of folks run aftermarket tie rods that are one piece that replaces the outer and inner. I’ve seen some GEN1’s not even run with inner boots. I personally trimmed my stock inner and its snug but not sealed. I have not had an issue. Aftermarket tie rods cause GEN1 racks to fail for another reason.

 

[zombiekiller]

Funny that I was just looking into these when reading this new thread. Glad I stopped to read it. Holy shit that should be a sticky with ten red exclamation marks on it here. @zombiekiller so the SVC ones that just thread on vs going all the way in are the ones to go with if you want to retain the stock steering rack and remain under warranty ?

yep. At that point, the only thing ford could claim is that your "lift" or bigger tires caused the steering rack failure.

And I'll say this: I don't believe that there is any material advantage to replacing the inner sections. I beat the **** out of my steering with 40s and long-travel suspension. I haven't had a rack failure that wasn't due to my own stupidity.

If everything is torqued to spec and you use thread locker and vistorque and you have a steering rack issue, it will be either a manufacturing defect, or you grip the wheel with a deathgrip.

soft hands save steering racks.

I am not aware of an aftermarket steering rack alternative. If someone does know of one, please speak up, I'm interested. ( but only because I like to overbuild and would love to talk to that company about an EPAS swingset steering setup.)

 

[Halo Raptor]

@zombiekiller Thanks. So what is the advantage of changing to the thread on SVC ones, just strength compared to the thinner OD stock ones ?

 

[zombiekiller]

@zombiekiller Thanks. So what is the advantage of changing to the thread on SVC ones, just strength compared to the thinner OD stock ones ?

Strength, some brake kits need different tie rods, and in the case of mid-travel trucks, they're longer. They also happen to look a lot nicer than the factory tres.

 

[waveslayer]

That sucks when you think you’re building a stronger truck and it causes damage to other parts.

Major bummer for sure! Now I'm out more money for something they advised I should upgrade... best part is, the owner of the brand reached out and said he sells boots to solve this problem....[emoji2357][emoji2357][emoji2357] um ok! Then why when you did the install didn't you install them! And I should have been checking my boots as well I was told.

So I'm going back to factory, anyone want a good deal on some Tie Rods. I'm giving it one more day before I post the brand. I'm trying to be as nice as possible before blasting anyone or their business. I run a Skilled Nursing Facility so I'm probably more patient then most when blasting anyone online.

Bottom line, terrible customer service and product!

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

 

[waveslayer]

Correct. Plenty of folks run aftermarket tie rods that are one piece that replaces the outer and inner. I’ve seen some GEN1’s not even run with inner boots. I personally trimmed my stock inner and its snug but not sealed. I have not had an issue. Aftermarket tie rods cause GEN1 racks to fail for another reason.

For my case, one of the boots had a cut from where they did the install... so I assume that it caused it to come lose and driving in the rain cost me $2K

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

 

[sixshooter_45]

For my case, one of the boots had a cut from where they did the install... so I assume that it caused it to come lose and driving in the rain cost me $2K

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

It really sucks if they sell the boots that solves the problem but didn't even make you aware of that you probably needed them.

It seems to me like they screwed up.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

This is the reality of running aftermarket parts: you fix one weak link only to create a new weak link somewhere else.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

No. No matter what you do, you'll never get the same caliber of seal with the aftermarket inner tie rods unless you do something crazy, like glue the end of the boot to the tie rod and cake RTV on it.

I see this problem a fair amount on the trail.

Everything is fine, then the driver hits a shallow puddle and the dash lights light up like a Christmas tree. sometimes you can clean it, try to reseal it and get it to come back to life by clearing the KAM, sometimes not.

As a previous poster stated, The SVC tie rod design retains the factory inners and maintains the seal.

And FYI- The steering rack SHOULD be about $1100 after the core return. It is literally 8 bolts and 2 plugs to swap it and it takes 20 mins.

It takes way longer to do the alignment and re-initialization of the rack than it does to swap the physical rack.

I know this because the EPAS rack is one of those lovely bits that I've had to replace.

Ford just released a superseding master rack part number that ends in N. Make sure that they aren't giving you something older and don't be tempted to buy an eBay rack bc they are $500 on there. the wrong PN will work mechanically, but the computer will fail the recalibration/re-initialization.

I have wondered how many people have tried to take Flex Seal and spray it around the boot to try and prevent any water from getting into the steering rack

 

[zombiekiller]

I have wondered how many people have tried to take Flex Seal and spray it around the boot to try and prevent any water from getting into the steering rack

sounds like something I'd do as a trail fix. Usually, I defer to gorilla tape and the commercial grade monster zip ties.

if that doesn't work, The roofer's tape and hose clamps come out.