Hilbilly Jack
Full Access Member
My ears are so bad from combat in VN I probably couldn't really appreciate it!conway.... you arent far from @Blown00gt you should go sit in his truck for a few min
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My ears are so bad from combat in VN I probably couldn't really appreciate it!conway.... you arent far from @Blown00gt you should go sit in his truck for a few min
trust me, you hear more than you thinkMy ears are so bad from combat in VN I probably couldn't really appreciate it!
or those of you who didn't have RCA's did you do the same for the subwoofer feed, and what did you use for your key power? Thanks!
Got it all installed! Ended up pulling my 12v accessory feed for the line converter from fuse 38 in the passenger kick panel, which is the radio accessory delay fuse, so the converter/amp will utilize the same on/off features as the radio does. The line converter also feeds the amp remote turn on. For the left and right speaker signals I tapped into the wiring where it goes through the body at the front door kick panels and wired them to the line converter. Amp uses 4 gauge power and ground. I ended up just grounding the line converter with the amp ground wire on the amp. I used 10 gauge wiring from the amp to the subwoofer as that's what was recommended in the amp manual. Lastly, I replaced the RCA plugs on the amp speaker input harness from female ends to male ends, that way I could plug it directly into the line converter. The bass knob I actually did a bunch of custom trimming and fitting and installed in next to the shifter so only the knob sticks out through the trim panel. Just waiting on the extension cable for it as it wasn't quite long enough to reach the amp. I'll take some pictures and finish tuning the setup once the cable comes in.
yes, need to use a hi/low converter from the front speakers to get signal. use 4ga power. not 8ga. theres a harness in the pkp with a black plug facing upwards. its wrapped in green tape. there is a 14ga blue wire that is rap.
the rear speaker signal is not as clean as the fronts. the fronts are the least affected by the oem eq curveCan you explain the front speaker tap vs rear speaker tap? What is missing from the rear speaker range? I had an 8" kicker hideaway installed and I'm pretty sure they tapped into the rear. I'm wondering if tapping into the front would make it sound any better. I'm not very happy with it and am thinking about installing my equip I pulled from my vette when I sold it. JL 500.1, JL 10tw3, and LC2i pro, which I'd need to tap to the front as well I'm guessing.
Ah ok. Is the OEM curve something that can be fixed with Forscan?the rear speaker signal is not as clean as the fronts. the fronts are the least affected by the oem eq curve
no most likely not. the only way is through a sound processorAh ok. Is the OEM curve something that can be fixed with Forscan?
Hey just a follow up, can you post pics of the box fitting under the seat? I'm wanting to do the same thing, something under the 40% rear seat. Every box I've seen so far goes under the 60% rear seat which is where my oem underseat storage is. This would be awesome if I can get it to work!
Noah is right, you should be tapping into the front speakers, and both sides as well, not just one side. Since my PX6 doesn't have RCA out I had to use a line converter tapped into the front speakers, but it worked out perfectly. If you're going for ultimate sound control though you need to change out the sound processor for an aftermarket unit as well as changing the head unit.Ah ok. Is the OEM curve something that can be fixed with Forscan?