Aftermarket subwoofer install on Sony system

[Cody Templeton]

Hey guys, getting ready to dive into the rest of my stereo install. Currently I have the Phoenix Automotive PX6 head unit using the original Sync 2 mic and the PX6 GPS antenna and speaker with the USB cables routed into the center console. I also still have the original Sony system speakers, wiring, and amp. Lastly, I pulled the original Sony subwoofer, enclosure, and bracket and replaced with a JL 12" truck wedge box and subwoofer that sits under the passenger side 40% flip up seat. I plan to power it using a NVX VADM1 500w RMS amplifier that will be mounted behind the passenger side 40% seat.

It was recommend to tap into the front speakers using a line converter since the rear speakers are not full range. The PX6 does not have RCA output, so I would need a line converter from what I can tell. I also need to install the amplifier wiring kit, which I believe uses 8 gauge wiring. I'll just need to find a key power for the amplifier turn on. Once it's all in I'll need to route the wiring for the bass controller too.

For those of you who didn't have RCA's did you do the same for the subwoofer feed, and what did you use for your key power? Thanks!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

yes, need to use a hi/low converter from the front speakers to get signal. use 4ga power. not 8ga. theres a harness in the pkp with a black plug facing upwards. its wrapped in green tape. there is a 14ga blue wire that is rap.

 

[Cody Templeton]

yes, need to use a hi/low converter from the front speakers to get signal. use 4ga power. not 8ga. theres a harness in the pkp with a black plug facing upwards. its wrapped in green tape. there is a 14ga blue wire that is rap.

I couldn't remember if it recommend 8 gauge, but maybe it was 4. Also, what is the PKP? Assuming you're pulling the amplifier turn on from that blue wire?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I couldn't remember if it recommend 8 gauge, but maybe it was 4. Also, what is the PKP? Assuming you're pulling the amplifier turn on from that blue wire?

passenger kick panel. its the fuse box thats behind there. and yes, it will turn on your amp(s) and shuts off when a door is opened

 

[Cody Templeton]

passenger kick panel. its the fuse box thats behind there. and yes, it will turn on your amp(s) and shuts off when a door is opened

Ok cool, I'll pull the amp power on from there then.

Seems like it's gonna be best to mount the amplifier behind the passenger rear seat so I have plenty of room for the wiring and it's out of the way. For a bit I considered trying to mount it up front on the firewall or something, but probably just makes more sense for it to be in the back near the sub.

The sub thankfully worked out really well fitment wise. It just barely extends passed the 40% rear seat, but sits completely underneath it otherwise. Only takes up a little more room than what the stock subwoofer setup did and still leaves the area under the 60% rear seat open.

 

[Cody Templeton]

Got it all installed! Ended up pulling my 12v accessory feed for the line converter from fuse 38 in the passenger kick panel, which is the radio accessory delay fuse, so the converter/amp will utilize the same on/off features as the radio does. The line converter also feeds the amp remote turn on. For the left and right speaker signals I tapped into the wiring where it goes through the body at the front door kick panels and wired them to the line converter. Amp uses 4 gauge power and ground. I ended up just grounding the line converter with the amp ground wire on the amp. I used 10 gauge wiring from the amp to the subwoofer as that's what was recommended in the amp manual. Lastly, I replaced the RCA plugs on the amp speaker input harness from female ends to male ends, that way I could plug it directly into the line converter. The bass knob I actually did a bunch of custom trimming and fitting and installed in next to the shifter so only the knob sticks out through the trim panel. Just waiting on the extension cable for it as it wasn't quite long enough to reach the amp. I'll take some pictures and finish tuning the setup once the cable comes in.

 

[Cody Templeton]

Extension cable came in and I got the install finished up. I'm so glad I ditched the stock subwoofer setup and did this. The bass can be completely controlled from the little knob, and even turned completely off or cranked all the way up. Everything is nicely hidden behind the right rear seat as well. If you're wanting to replace the stock Sony subwoofer or don't have the Sony system to start with I'd recommend going this route. If you have an aftermarket head unit with RCA outputs you won't need the line converter though. The PX6 just doesn't have RCA outputs, so that was the reason for the line converter and tapping into the front speakers.

 

[Cody Templeton]

Just figured I'd toss in a longer term update on this.

The line converter off the front speakers to gain the RCA inputs to the amp has been working perfectly. If you have a deck that doesn't have RCA outs on it this is definitely a great way to do it. Pulling your accessory feed from fuse 38 in the passenger kick panel works perfect as well, since it's the radio accessory delay fuse so it will work exactly like the stock radio setup does. My accessory feed runs to the line converter to power it on, which then is hooked to the amplifier to power it on. Only reason I changed my RCA ends on the amplifier harness is because I needed male ends to plug into the line converter.

It was recommended to use 8 gauge wiring for my amplifier in the manual that came with it, but after running the length I needed to it was a better choice to use the 4 gauge like The Car Stereo Company recommended. Also, your amplifier will govern your choice of what size wire you will run to the subwoofer(s), in my case it was 10 gauge that was recommended in the manual. You may need larger if you're running a longer lead, but mine was only about 3 feet long.

I highly recommend a setup with a remote bass knob. Sometimes certain inputs have much more or less bass than others, especially if you're using something like YouTube. Being able to adjust the bass quickly and easily is a huge benefit. I spent way too long custom doing my bass knob between the shifter and cupholders, but it turned out amazing. Only issue is that the harness wasn't long enough, so I needed to order a 4-pole 3.5mm aux cable to extend it to the amplifier.

The combination of the NVX VADM1 500w RMS amplifier and JL 12" sub in the truck wedge box is amazing. The amplifier is incredibly small, being about the same size as say a graphing calculator, so it's very easy to mount and hide. Mine resides behind the right rear passenger seat with the line converter resting on top of it. The subwoofer only slightly extends passed underneath the right rear seat, but it's fairly well protected from all sides. If you are alright with trading off for a bit less bass but having a little more room they also offer a 10" sub in a truck wedge box as well, but it was highly recommend to me to use the 12" sub over the 10" one.

The only other thing I have left I plan on doing is making a simple cover out of aluminum to hide the amplifier, line converter, and wiring. It's not that it looks bad, it would just look more factory if it had some sort of enclosure over it.

 

[Hilbilly Jack]

Have the same sub in mine although it was never mounter by the previous crappy installer! Took a bit to find the mounts but after it was done it was a MAJOR improvement in the sound! It will shake you out of the back seat! Also have the "Knob Job" for base and you are correct - the ability to adjust on the fly is perfect! Next on the list in a week is the Sony XAV-9500 ES head unit with Maestro adapter, t cable etc. My guy in Conway AR says he promises he can do it!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Have the same sub in mine although it was never mounter by the previous crappy installer! Took a bit to find the mounts but after it was done it was a MAJOR improvement in the sound! It will shake you out of the back seat! Also have the "Knob Job" for base and you are correct - the ability to adjust on the fly is perfect! Next on the list in a week is the Sony XAV-9500 ES head unit with Maestro adapter, t cable etc. My guy in Conway AR says he promises he can do it!

conway.... you arent far from @Blown00gt you should go sit in his truck for a few min