Advice on How to Proceed QUE THE BUYBACK!

[BoostCreep]

Do you have another dealer close by?

Call Ford customer service for guidance. Dealer knows there are problems but unwilling to fix.

I’m in OC, we have lots of dealers but this one has great reviews and I had a good experience with them doing warranty work on my Gen 2, so I went back.

 

[BoostCreep]

Yikes bro. My 23 was doing #5 until I replaced the battery in the fob. I didn’t think the battery could be dead already, but it hasn’t done it since.

If you’re not interested or not ready for a buyback maybe try a different dealer? Or request a regional Ford rep get involved?

FTO might have better advice

I thought the same thing but the shop foreman said no way it’s a battery that new, who knows. I know on my 18 gt350 though I get a message on my dash that tells me the fob battery is low, so figured the truck would do that too.

 

[BoostCreep]

Ford Fobs enter sleep mode after a couple minutes if not moved. I’ve left mine in my bronco cup holder overnight in my garage. When I’ve gone out the next morning and open the bronco door, the vehicle comes to life…lights, dash, running boards deploy etc…I can climb in, hit the start button and nothing will happen. That’s when I remember the fob hasn’t moved inside the cup holder. I wiggle the fob a couple times, then hit start again and she fires up. It’s fords way of preventing someone from spoofing your fobs signal while in places like the gym, where your key may be locked in a locker. Or to prevent thieves from coming up to your front door, spoofing your key, then driving off in your ride while you sleep.

Very interesting and good to know!

 

[BoostCreep]

I’ll offer my perspective, having prevailed in a lemon law suit.


This would concern me more than a bit. I’d be engaged with Ford CS to seek out a new stealership for a more thorough analysis


That seems kind of annoying and given your follow up post it seems there’s a missing fastener.
it seems they’re willing to fix, under warranty. why the hesitation?



Go where humans are meant to live?
did you try turning off the AC?


Do you mean like a single click, like a brake switch activating? I gotta agree, sounds normal.


This I would not let go. I’ve seen no key detected a bunch of times, transient, and goes right back to normal. 2x I’ve seen it persistent. 1x at some winery my wife dragged me to out in the hinterlands of Virginia. Yes, there are still hinterlands in VA where you should mind your manners, don’t id yourself as LE or a Fed, and NEVER mention the word ’still’. Just don’t. Anyway I couldn’t unlock the truck, had to use the key ( I forgot trying FordPass ), got in and had to use the fob slot backup.

2nd time here in TX, a firetruck pulled in to a gas station behind me, rendering the Fob inoperative. backup slot worked.
It’s all fun and games until you can’t start the almost 6 figure truck.


SCORE!


First, ask yourself why you’re unhappy with the truck; you obviously are. The real question is why.
Have your eyes wandered to something else?
Has the truck ticked you off to the point you’re really getting fed up?
Was the ‘sales experience’ sub par ( not ADM shaming you here, but that can sour things quick )?
Some other issue with the truck you haven’t elaborated on?

I’ve definitely been in vehicles I wanted to be done with and i get it. You need to be honest with yourself though.
#’s 3, 4 & 6 seem trivial to me. You got a fix for 6, an offer to fix 2, and the HVAC issue I’m a bit less clear on.

For 2 & 6, take yes for an answer. Double down on the things that may resurface. 1 & 5 are significant to me, ask for more help.

I’m not that worried about the vibration, I’ve done a good amount of diagnosis myself and I’m certain it’s either the front driveshaft cv, ring or pinion, pinion bearing, or carrier bearings. My money is on driveshaft or pinion bearing. I think if I push hard enough someone will fix it and then should be good.

The more I think about it I’m kinda upset the most by #2 because it’s annoying AF and makes me doubt the structural integrity of that part of the cab. I also feel most body shops do shoddy work, and I hate the idea of tearing out the dash, pulling the door off, ripping apart the A pillar/door threshold, and possibly having to pull the fender too. I’ve had vehicles in collisions that undergo work like that and afterwards I just feel they’re “tainted” and end up trading them.

For #3 it doesn’t matter if it’s auto or manual, or if AC is on or off. It also works the other way too. When it’s 60-80 outside I run it at 70. When it’s 30 you have to turn it down to 60, and when it’s 100 outside I’ll freeze if it’s any lower than 75-76. I’m constantly changing the temp trying to get comfortable and it defeats the purpose of auto dual climate. I’m honestly pretty sure it’s a defective interior temperature sender but the dealer won’t troubleshoot anything for me.

For #4 I hear the electric servo actuator noise which seems completely normal, but then it’s followed by a very audible click. It gets pretty annoying in traffic.

Key fob is my lowest priority now only because it’s happened to me so few times.

I absolutely love the truck, my favorite vehicle so far. I paid msrp and love the color, AMB. But I do feel my ‘20 was just more solid and issue free for the most part, except a pinion seal leak. I have two small children and a busy life and am tempted to order a ‘24 and just move on, even though that seems crazy and wasteful to me. I just am not ready to deal with the hassle, I am getting flashbacks of a JK Rubicon I had that spent 3 months at the dealer and I just cannot do that again.

I think I’m most hung up on #2 because I have the least faith in a good quality fix there to be honest.

 

[BoostCreep]

1. Have you rotated the tires?

2. I don't see a video? Tell them to fix the loose screw? My Gen 2 driver door made a loud clicking noise when opened all the way. It got my attention, but no issue for 100k miles.

3. Maybe chalk it up to a 1 time deal? Raptor mystique.

4. Pretty sure both pedals click when pressed, I will try and check tomorrow though.

5. Seems like I had the no fob message too, ignored it and went on about the day.

Yes, rotated tires and no change. I also feel no vibration in the steering wheel at all.

I don’t know how to attach a video? Did it make that noise for all 100k miles?

As I told @smurfslayer above, it’s the most problematic in freezing temps but it happens to some degree at any ambient temp that deviates much from 65-75, so definitely not a one time thing.

Did you only see the no key detected message once?

 

[BoostCreep]

does it have to be constructive?

asking for a friend

Fire away, I have thick skin

 

[GCATX]

Yes, rotated tires and no change. I also feel no vibration in the steering wheel at all.

I don’t know how to attach a video? Did it make that noise for all 100k miles?

As I told @smurfslayer above, it’s the most problematic in freezing temps but it happens to some degree at any ambient temp that deviates much from 65-75, so definitely not a one time thing.

Did you only see the no key detected message once?

Yes, the door clicked since new and it sounded like it was from the hinge area.

I have seen the no key thing a few times.

 

[tabvette]

Yes, rotated tires and no change. I also feel no vibration in the steering wheel at all.

I don’t know how to attach a video? Did it make that noise for all 100k miles?

As I told @smurfslayer above, it’s the most problematic in freezing temps but it happens to some degree at any ambient temp that deviates much from 65-75, so definitely not a one time thing.

Did you only see the no key detected message once?

If you have rotated tires and it is still there, it is in the driveline somewhere, I would definitely get FORD corporate involved and possibly find another dealer. I had issues with another brand (Chevy Camaro) took it to a dealer the next town over, then bent over backwards to make it right and fixed all the issues. This dealership does not sound competent enough to handle your issues. Keep us posted and sorry to hear about all the problems.

 

[Nex]

The more I think about it I’m kinda upset the most by #2 because it’s annoying AF and makes me doubt the structural integrity of that part of the cab. I also feel most body shops do shoddy work, and I hate the idea of tearing out the dash, pulling the door off, ripping apart the A pillar/door threshold, and possibly having to pull the fender too. I’ve had vehicles in collisions that undergo work like that and afterwards I just feel they’re “tainted” and end up trading them.

The bolt you pictured does not hold the door. Looks to be more of a one time use trime screw. Not structural. Wild αss guess but, looks like a screw they would use to keep a part tight with the glue dries.

 

[BoostCreep]

The bolt you pictured does not hold the door. Looks to be more of a one time use trime screw. Not structural. Wild αss guess but, looks like a screw they would use to keep a part tight with the glue dries.

I wondered the same thing but the same bolt on the drivers side takes 35 lbft no problem so something clearly wrong on the passenger side. I have no concerns with the door falling off though, I agree it’s not structural. Honestly I think my whole passenger side of the cab is missing panel bond or something went wrong, because the rear rocker area creaks too.