GWBush
Full Access Member
Not to my knowledge, but I’ll defer. I’ve had absolutely zero issues but every model and every year has its quirks.
Advice needed on first gen pricing
- Thread starter Jtai45
- Start date
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jamesstone1933
Active Member
Paid $28,000 for mine with 142,000 miles but as said previously it was maintained properly had all paperwork etc. If all looks good I would buy it and it is the OG
mprice1234
SVT Gen 1 Rules
I have not had any issues with my 2010 other than replacing the switch for the rear window. $21,000 is a high price I KBB its value here in Colorado and with standard options its trade in value shows $15,500 with most all the options it's at $17,300. I would make a lower offer and see if you can work them down if not walk away.
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ugliestdrivingraptor
Full Access Member
yeah a PPI would be a good idea. also check for frame damage, it will show up around the bed mounts, and the LCA brackets up front.
The 2010 has the worse version of the center console, SCAB is generally less valuable even tho they are technically better offroad due to the shorter wheelbase, doesnt have the tailgate handle, headlights are pathetic compared to the 2013,2014 projectors. theres more that i cant remember off the top of my head
emerald_nomad - RLTW
Active Member
Definitely try to get a PPI. If a PPI isn't an option (it usually is, unless the dealer is a hole in the wall scumbag establishment in New Jersey), make sure you go over EVERYTHING:
open/close all windows (to include the rear sliding glass), open/close/tilt the sunroof a handful of times, ensure 4H/4L work, Lock/Unlock the door locks, make sure the shox arent on their period and leaking all over the place. Make sure the front and rear cameras work, etc.
You get it, right? $20k might not be a lot of money to some, but if I'm spending my hard earned $20k I'm going to make sure I'm getting the best bang for my buck. Nothing wrong with trying to talk them down either
open/close all windows (to include the rear sliding glass), open/close/tilt the sunroof a handful of times, ensure 4H/4L work, Lock/Unlock the door locks, make sure the shox arent on their period and leaking all over the place. Make sure the front and rear cameras work, etc.
You get it, right? $20k might not be a lot of money to some, but if I'm spending my hard earned $20k I'm going to make sure I'm getting the best bang for my buck. Nothing wrong with trying to talk them down either
Steven_Born
Active Member
So I bought my 2010 SCAB with 182,000+ miles on it. I did purchase it around 3 years ago so I did get a much better price and just so you know I have put another ~30k miles on the truck since owning it and for the most part it has been trouble free. I have had to complete the typical items such as brakes, shocks but otherwise it's been great.
Now I was able to get all the service records for the truck which I really like and my wife kind of knew the owner.
Really if the truck is clean and no issues and checks out, I would not be concerned all all.
While some have stated that the later models have addressed some items, I will say that I prefer the HID lights on my 2014. But both trucks do have the tailgate handle or step. As some have stated, see if you can get the dealer to either address the seat and any other items of concern or have them step back on the price.
I did re-do all my seats when I bought mine.
I will say that my son and I both prefer the SCAB over my SCREW, it is funny to drive.
Just my 2 cents.
Now I was able to get all the service records for the truck which I really like and my wife kind of knew the owner.
Really if the truck is clean and no issues and checks out, I would not be concerned all all.
While some have stated that the later models have addressed some items, I will say that I prefer the HID lights on my 2014. But both trucks do have the tailgate handle or step. As some have stated, see if you can get the dealer to either address the seat and any other items of concern or have them step back on the price.
I did re-do all my seats when I bought mine.
I will say that my son and I both prefer the SCAB over my SCREW, it is funny to drive.
Just my 2 cents.
GWBush
Full Access Member
Interesting take. I find the center console attractive, the white gauges much better than the boring black, I do have the tailgate step and the SCAB is better looking than the SCREW imo. All Raptors are awesome but something special about a 2010 OG.
May have several thousand more miles before major stuff needed.
Like others, am an advocate of the SCAB. My 2012 has over 204,000 now and it is nearly time for front brakes (2nd time). Replaced front shocks at about 195,000 miles (right front leakage).
Think the only "tune up" (replace plugs, etc) was at about 170k.
Rear camera needs replacement, but no other issues. But may have driver seat bottom cover replaced during next year.
Have done oil changes at 3k to 3.5k interval since new (my preference). No mods, no aftermarket bolt-on shxx. Am wondering if it will go another 100k?
When I read about the various electrical and controls issues, and the engine problems with the later Gen trucks, am thinking that another lower milage Gen 1 would be the best truck to buy.
Good advice from others about the 2010, depending on condition about 18k may be appropriate. For 20-21k I would expect it to be in good shape, no issues.
Like others, am an advocate of the SCAB. My 2012 has over 204,000 now and it is nearly time for front brakes (2nd time). Replaced front shocks at about 195,000 miles (right front leakage).
Think the only "tune up" (replace plugs, etc) was at about 170k.
Rear camera needs replacement, but no other issues. But may have driver seat bottom cover replaced during next year.
Have done oil changes at 3k to 3.5k interval since new (my preference). No mods, no aftermarket bolt-on shxx. Am wondering if it will go another 100k?
When I read about the various electrical and controls issues, and the engine problems with the later Gen trucks, am thinking that another lower milage Gen 1 would be the best truck to buy.
Good advice from others about the 2010, depending on condition about 18k may be appropriate. For 20-21k I would expect it to be in good shape, no issues.
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