Advice: Gen 1 4WD Actuator and Axle Change

[Buy D Dip]

Hey everyone. I have a Gen 1 with 97K miles. I am going to replace the CV axles this weekend and I am wondering if I should replace the 4WD actuators too while I am at it? The actuators aren't giving me any problems but I thought I should replace anyways.

I heard the axles can be stubborn. Should I rent a slide hammer? Please send any video links or resources with changing out the CV axles on a Raptor. The ones on youtube are for regular F150s.

 

[tltoronto]

Definitely replace the actuators. Were you in 4wd when this happened? That CV looks pretty chewed up for occasional 4wd use is why I ask. You can get in behind the CV and tap the inner CV cup out with hammer and flat screwdriver. Usually, the CV just pulls apart when you try to yank it out. The slide hammer will def be overkill. Also get a good grease to regrease the outer CV bearing as its just a little needle bearin gin the hub with no other service ability. And, yes, you can do this job without pulling your tie rod end out of the spindle and messing the alignment up.

 

[Jhollowell]

I just did this on my 2011. CV just pulls right out. You might have to give it a good tug to pop it over the snap ring but mine came out with no tools needed. I did pull the IWE (4x4 actuator) off so i could get the end of the CV to clear the hub. I only removed the calipers, rotor and upper control arm and was able to get everything out with no issues

 

[Dane]

Haven't needed a slide hammer on mine, maybe just some swearing. As far as IWE, if they aren't acting up (yet) I probably wouldn't. If you've got money to burn, well, super simple while you are there. You can also consider replacing your wheel bearings since those wear out. Also super simple while you are there. If shocks are on your list, well, great time for that as well. Same with brakes.

If you disconnect your sway bar link you can get a little extra room. If you are replacing the IWEs, disconnect them before pulling the axle out of the wheel bearing - then you don't have to try to clear the IWE. Same thing with putting it back in, kinda put the IWE on the axle shaft first. Remember to properly torque (but don't overtorque) the axle nut. It's not a high value, something like 30. Locktite that bastard though.

Replace the axle seal while you are there regardless. Be delicate putting the new axle in. Once you have the splines lined up you may have to get rough with it until it pops in.

Keep your spare old parts - I carry an old, but good IWE with me on trips. I also had to pirate the wheel sensor out of an old wheel bearing which saved me from having to try to track one down or buy a new wheel bearing for just the sensor, or at least pull the wheel sensor before you chuck the old wheel bearing.

 

[II Sevv]

The axles really aren’t hard to get out. Slide hammers usually don’t help because they tend to just come out with some shimmying. I wouldn’t bother replacing the actuators unless the teeth on the axle are chewed up. I have 130k on both original actuators and no noise from them.

 

[II Sevv]

You also don’t need to remove any extra parts like people are saying. You just remove the UCA and the tie rod to get the knuckle to flex out of the way and then yank the axle out.

 

[Dane]

You also don’t need to remove any extra parts like people are saying. You just remove the UCA and the tie rod to get the knuckle to flex out of the way and then yank the axle out.

What extra parts is anyone saying to remove?

 

[II Sevv]

What extra parts is anyone saying to remove?

Calipers and rotors. I’m just saying it’s not necessary and could save you time skipping.

 

[Buy D Dip]

Thanks all! First time doing this so wish me luck!

 

[Buy D Dip]

Definitely replace the actuators. Were you in 4wd when this happened? That CV looks pretty chewed up for occasional 4wd use is why I ask. You can get in behind the CV and tap the inner CV cup out with hammer and flat screwdriver. Usually, the CV just pulls apart when you try to yank it out. The slide hammer will def be overkill. Also get a good grease to regrease the outer CV bearing as its just a little needle bearin gin the hub with no other service ability. And, yes, you can do this job without pulling your tie rod end out of the spindle and messing the alignment up.

I was not off roading recently except last year but didn't really noticed. The give away was all the grease in the wheel well.