- Joined
- Jul 18, 2017
- Posts
- 2,975
- Reaction score
- 1,387
The XL80 are our most popular lights we sell for the pillars
Shoot me a PM and we would be happy to price it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A Pillar Lights
- Thread starter FDHog
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Shoot me a PM and we would be happy to price it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RADvelociRaptor
Full Access Member
@4x4TruckLEDs.com appreciate the quick response!
As mentioned, I have the rigid brackets on hand. I do have a Ronin Factory 50cal stubby antenna ( lol ) ... I just want to confirm that either of those lights will fit the rigid mounts? Also do you offer a pnp harness for it to be hooked up to the upfitter switches?
As mentioned, I have the rigid brackets on hand. I do have a Ronin Factory 50cal stubby antenna ( lol ) ... I just want to confirm that either of those lights will fit the rigid mounts? Also do you offer a pnp harness for it to be hooked up to the upfitter switches?
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2017
- Posts
- 2,975
- Reaction score
- 1,387
The 360 series don’t use plug and play harnesses... as they don’t use Connecotrs - the radiance and 360 series just
Give you 3 bare wires to connect - so no real harness - best we offer is a harness that you crimp onto the Upfitters and then crimp onto the radiance/360 lights
I can’t say if they fit the rigid mounts, nobody ever buys the rigid mounts from us - SDHQ and Alternative Off-road are the go to mounts on the Raptor World - but your mounts should work fine
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have the Rigid D2 spots on Rigid mounts with a stubby antenna with no clearance issues.
Stubby is fatter than stock.
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2017
- Posts
- 1,262
- Reaction score
- 1,201
We just received our Plug N Play A-Pillar Harnesses in stock the other day.
Our new harnesses feature QUICK CONNECT adaptors for any plug, regardless of light brand. Rigid, Baja, ETC. The quick connect connectors plug into the bullet style plug (depending on the light you have and connector styles you choose) and then the heat shrink wrap can be shrunk and sealed down around the other connectors. This allows you to use and light on these harnesses and does not require special tools to do it. Our new A-Pillar harnesses feature a 14 gauge main wire to hold the high powered LP6 and others.
Each harness includes a third wire IN CASE you have a light with a backlight.
We have custom harnesses for-
- Triple Fog Lights Universal Plug N Play, all light models
- A-Pillar Universal Plug N Play, all light models
- Rear all the way to switches Universal Plug N Play, all light models
- Grille Light Pairs
- Grille Light Single
- Bumper Light Bar Single
- Plun N Play Relay Adaptor Harnesses (Plug into any of these harnesses to allow up to 30 amps draw from high power lights to use ANY of your switches... Including the 5 amp ones.)
We also have Fuse Kits to cover all your switches and the full vehicle at wholesale prices. The specialty Split Mcase+ fuses uses are a specialty fuse that is difficult to find outside of a dealer or large bulk quantities.
Here is a link to our Harness Section
https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...series-raptor-ranger-harnesses-and-connectors
John
SPVparts.com
317-93-GO-SPV
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2017
- Posts
- 2,975
- Reaction score
- 1,387
Nice ... but radiance and 360 series lights are not plug and play - as I mentioned earlier they dont use a DT or WP connector as the lights have bare wires coming off of them. So anybody who installs those always has to splice on connectors no matter what.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2017
- Posts
- 1,262
- Reaction score
- 1,201
True, sort of, but these harnesses include the quick crimp pins and slide on connectors for the Radiance/360 lights as part of the kit, which are the only ones without plugs on them. There is nothing to splice. The connectors/pins just crimp on with a crimp tool. Unfortunately, no one can control what a manufacturer does with their light production.
It's no different than crimping a connector to the switch wires on the truck. The switch wires are also bare wire. However, once the terminals are crimped on, they are then permanently able to plug and unplug. So from that standpoint, there is NO harness that is 100% plug and play with the switch wires coming from Ford without a connector.
toeknee
Member
I wouldn't recommend the Alternative Offroad brackets. I bought them thinking I was getting the best brackets and they had paint missing in three spots, out of the box. Not sure they are quality checked at some point in the process before they are mailed out. Been meaning to get a longer post about this out there for buyers to beware but been really busy.
green shot
green shot
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2017
- Posts
- 2,975
- Reaction score
- 1,387
I wouldn't recommend the Alternative Offroad brackets. I bought them thinking I was getting the best brackets and they had paint missing in three spots, out of the box. Not sure they are quality checked at some point in the process before they are mailed out. Been meaning to get a longer post about this out there for buyers to beware but been really busy.
green shot
I've never seen that happen (except for 1 person, whom might be you i'm guessing). Could have been a bad powder coating job or something. AO will replace them at no charge however. I'd contact the dealer you purchased from to setup an RMA
Ryan C
Full Access Member
XL80s are very, very bright. I have them on SDHQ mounts and they wash out 4 squadron pros in my bumper - its almost hard to tell the lower lights are even on when the XL80s are on. Also, the light direction is sooo much better from up high compared to fogs. It gets rid of shadows otherwise created by the lower lights, for road undulations, behind rocks, etc.
As others have noted about install, I found this to be a surprisingly difficult job. The wires from the XLs were the wrong length to be much of any use (neither was long enough to get to the power wire for the upfitter), the supplied splicing stuff didn't make much sense to me, and the SDHQ mounts are tight. I've attached a couple of photos of how I routed wiring. It is a bit different than others have done, but it made sense to me. Note the fit on the passenger side was too tight given the antenna to hood hinge clearance, so I put it through the drain hole. I had to bore out the hole a little, but I was fine with that as you can't see it unless hood is up, and these things are never coming off my truck anyways.
I added the split wire conduit to protect the wire. It probably wasn't needed.
Cover the work area with a towel, or risk losing nuts, bolts, washers etc. down into the fenders or engine area.
Final tip - you can get antitheft SS bolts (not shown here) from numerous sources and save a few bucks from the kit that BD sells.
As others have noted about install, I found this to be a surprisingly difficult job. The wires from the XLs were the wrong length to be much of any use (neither was long enough to get to the power wire for the upfitter), the supplied splicing stuff didn't make much sense to me, and the SDHQ mounts are tight. I've attached a couple of photos of how I routed wiring. It is a bit different than others have done, but it made sense to me. Note the fit on the passenger side was too tight given the antenna to hood hinge clearance, so I put it through the drain hole. I had to bore out the hole a little, but I was fine with that as you can't see it unless hood is up, and these things are never coming off my truck anyways.
I added the split wire conduit to protect the wire. It probably wasn't needed.
Cover the work area with a towel, or risk losing nuts, bolts, washers etc. down into the fenders or engine area.
Final tip - you can get antitheft SS bolts (not shown here) from numerous sources and save a few bucks from the kit that BD sells.
Similar threads
