If it hasn’t been posted yet, spark plug torque spec is 159 lb-in. Also, they should be replaced when the engine is warm (cool to the touch after running) to minimize the chance of damage to the threads.
6.2L spark plug change - tips and tricks
- Thread starter allinon72
- Start date
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Ruger
FRF Addict
Here's my two cents contribution having completed the job:
- I found that replacing the upper row of plugs about as difficult as the lower ones. The upper rows require removal of the intake plenum, access to the rearmost plugs (under the windshield) is tight, and the spark plug wires complicate getting the plug boots off the plugs. The lower rows pretty much require removal of the front tires, and access to several of the plugs is very tight. Pretty much a wash.
- A real challenge for me was removing the spark plug boots on the bottom rows of plugs. Luckily I have a spark plug removal tool in my tool box. A cheap plastic tool that's at least 30 years old, and it saved the day.
- Everybody notes the difficult access to the lower front passenger side plug because it is right in line with the shock, but the only trouble I had was removing the spark plug boot. No tool worked, not even a pair of angled long handle needle nosed pliers. I had to invent something to get that plug boot off - three loops of small diameter nylon cord. It took a bit of manipulation to get three turns around the boot, but once I did I could pull on both ends of the string and that's what broke it loose. If that had failed I would have only been able to replace 15 plugs.
- The factory does not apparently individually gap the spark plugs. Six of the original plugs were significantly off.
- I found that a flex extension was helpful in threading in the new plugs, a short-handled ratchet was real handy due to the tight working confines, and a 3/8" swivel was an absolute must - sometimes installed between a short and much longer extension.
- I used high-temp anti-seize on the new spark plug threads because every old plug had rusted threads, and I used some special purpose silicon grease on the inside of the spark plug boots to make the next iteration a little less frustrating.
- Spark plugs torqued to 13.25 ft-lbs (159 in-lbs).
- I found that replacing the upper row of plugs about as difficult as the lower ones. The upper rows require removal of the intake plenum, access to the rearmost plugs (under the windshield) is tight, and the spark plug wires complicate getting the plug boots off the plugs. The lower rows pretty much require removal of the front tires, and access to several of the plugs is very tight. Pretty much a wash.
- A real challenge for me was removing the spark plug boots on the bottom rows of plugs. Luckily I have a spark plug removal tool in my tool box. A cheap plastic tool that's at least 30 years old, and it saved the day.
- Everybody notes the difficult access to the lower front passenger side plug because it is right in line with the shock, but the only trouble I had was removing the spark plug boot. No tool worked, not even a pair of angled long handle needle nosed pliers. I had to invent something to get that plug boot off - three loops of small diameter nylon cord. It took a bit of manipulation to get three turns around the boot, but once I did I could pull on both ends of the string and that's what broke it loose. If that had failed I would have only been able to replace 15 plugs.
- The factory does not apparently individually gap the spark plugs. Six of the original plugs were significantly off.
- I found that a flex extension was helpful in threading in the new plugs, a short-handled ratchet was real handy due to the tight working confines, and a 3/8" swivel was an absolute must - sometimes installed between a short and much longer extension.
- I used high-temp anti-seize on the new spark plug threads because every old plug had rusted threads, and I used some special purpose silicon grease on the inside of the spark plug boots to make the next iteration a little less frustrating.
- Spark plugs torqued to 13.25 ft-lbs (159 in-lbs).
Attachments
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
I didn't torque mine to speck, just the first "grunt", hope they don't fall out, lol.
Gen1TillDeath
Full Access Member
Has anyone rotated their coils like “EricM” mentioned earlier on page 1? Never thought of doing this but makes since.
“Rotated coils”? Why? An ignition coil either is good or has failed, “rotating” coils makes no sense.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
I agree, just buy all new ones for piece of mind. I replaced all 8 of mine at 150000 miles, just because.
Gen1TillDeath
Full Access Member
My bad…. I just assumed some could potentially wear more or less than others. Swapping them out for new ones is the best way to go about it though. So never mind me lol
Ruger
FRF Addict
I think that you asked a valid and interesting question.
Raptor-YYC
Member
My mechanic had the spark plugs done in 2hrs.
Also replaced the coil pack boots. Boots come with the new spring and pellet.
Went with wires from Napa. NGK plugs and boots.
He then reset the air fuel mixture on the computer.
Runs amazingly
Also replaced the coil pack boots. Boots come with the new spring and pellet.
Went with wires from Napa. NGK plugs and boots.
He then reset the air fuel mixture on the computer.
Runs amazingly
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
It's all good, I myself just don't see the point in getting access to the coils and removing them all, just to reorient them, especially if you are changing the plugs because of mileage. If it is a diagnosis problem, then swapping the coils to find a source of problem, would make total sense. We all have different points of view around here, all are valid, just opinionated.
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