sure. A few things up front.
1) I don’t really have a ‘build’, it’s the culmination of several small projects
2) I didn’t have a plan when I set out
3) I had the sony system.
The basic order:
Added a sub
next I took inspiration from
@Guy in
DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00
swapped in some inexpensive coax speakers.
I also pulled the sub enclosure and wrapped with Dynamat. That helped quite a bit. I ran the kicker 8” sub pushed by the 300w kenwood amp for a while and was mostly satisfied with it. The only real downer was the bass roll off, but I still had the muddy, imprecise mixing from the stock system. Having seen many others do a full upgrade, I set my sights on prepping for an amp upgrade, which would almost certainly leave the 300w sub as underpowered.
MTI was the only plug and play (cough) option I could find.
Fitting the Mobile Toys behind the seat sub
Even with the same amp, sound was just ‘bigger’.
Although the A series pioneers in the doors up front sounded way better than stock, I decided to try components, running the tweets up front in the pillars. This lets me run a 4 channel amp for the main speakers and helps with imaging.
component speakers without an amp upgrade (yet)
Replaced the Sony amp, finally
Although I had a plan for this, it ended up being a lot of frustrating and time consuming effort. Not hard or difficult, just time consuming.
So, if I had it to do again...
I would plan on a 5 channel amp with enough juice to push the sub hard and get the door speakers to about 45w rms minimum. I’ve got a 75w x4 amp now and it’s beyond loud enough to make my ears ring. I don’t have to use all the volume now and I can hear the stereo clearly at 70mph, windows down.
So -
- home runs to battery power/ground
- buy the MTI sub box, signal processor (DSR1 for the pre-’18’s, or comparable for B&O). Unless you score one empty/2nd hand, they sell the box loaded and prefer the JL Audio sub/amp combo. I can’t disagree with this.
- ensure you have all the misc. connectors, wires, harnesses, tools, and have spares.
- buy door speakers; I like the front components as many else on here do. I’m pretty sure you can still just swap the cr@p door speakers straight up on the ’18 + trucks, it just may not do much but saves some time later on.
- have all components in hand, mock up mounting the amp, signal processor. Be mindful of the seat positions up/down.
At this point, you should be ready to do the swap.