2018 B&O stereo upgrade

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Hockster

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oem amp is not going to power it properly. get a real amp. the issue with underseat subwoofers is depth. trying to fit a full size speaker under there wont happen. and the shallow mounts available are not very good. they may play loud but lack the deep response. the subwoofers i use fit and since they dont require a lot of airspace, work perfectly under there. i have done a few of the new trucks so far and i still find the same sub to fit the best.

Got any kits put together for these new systems?
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy and frf rolodex
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Can yoou expand on the not powering it properly?

How many watts and what ohm would you guess it is? I didn't really wanna run a bunch of wires.

What size box, sub etc are you having luck with that fits under the screw passenger rear?
in order to get the right sound you will need to do that. the oem amp does not put out enough power. most aftermarket subwoofers wnt to see a minimum of 100watts. the oem amp doesnt even come close. distortion occurs at a lower level and that is the main cause of blowing a woofer. distortion causes erradic movement of the sub.
Got any kits put together for these new systems?

i have done a few of these now ones. pretty much used the same equipment but box of course is different. on both the super and crew cabs, 2 10" woofers fit fine. amps can go behind the rear seat on both models.
 

surfnsocal

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in order to get the right sound you will need to do that. the oem amp does not put out enough power. most aftermarket subwoofers wnt to see a minimum of 100watts. the oem amp doesnt even come close. distortion occurs at a lower level and that is the main cause of blowing a woofer. distortion causes erradic movement of the sub.


i have done a few of these now ones. pretty much used the same equipment but box of course is different. on both the super and crew cabs, 2 10" woofers fit fine. amps can go behind the rear seat on both models.

What do you use to interface with the stock B&O/SYNC system?
 
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BDF

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I'm not trying to tear anyones face off, (like in face off)...

I'm looking for a low wattage 10" dual 4 ohm sub to work alone in a ported enclosure, ordering the one from Fox Acoustics.

I really just want it to drive lower, I dont need it su per loud, the factory head unit is not that loud anyhow.
 

The Car Stereo Company

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I'm not trying to tear anyones face off, (like in face off)...

I'm looking for a low wattage 10" dual 4 ohm sub to work alone in a ported enclosure, ordering the one from Fox Acoustics.

I really just want it to drive lower, I dont need it su per loud, the factory head unit is not that loud anyhow.
eqrthquake or kicker might be your best bet. from what i know, they have the lowest wattage speakers available, if they fit. dont expect too much though
 

aschiller98

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How does the B&O compare to the kicker audio in the 2017? I hate the audio in my 2017, and much prefer the audio in my 2012 raptor
 

RWE

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I don't know where the b&o hate is coming from. Everyone I know says it sounds great. Either way, its night and day from my 14.
 
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BDF

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OK, so ended up with a Fox acoustics ported enclosure with a 10" Image Dynamics (almost got a Diamond Audio) DVC 4ohm.

Not broken in yet, but initially of course worlds better than the OEM sub. Frankly its crossed over too low and the driver is too small and is in a tiny sealed enclosure.
Hits pretty hard, grabs the low end the Factory sub could never see. Of course will never be over driven. Also thinking based entirely on the amp barely being warm, that may have been able to do dual 2 instead of 4 ohm.

The box does take up the space under the drivers rear, even stuck out a bit, so I took the plastic face plate off the storage piece to get more room. Wish it was smaller...

Anyone know the Part No for the wire that goes from the amp to the sub? its a 4 wire, red, green, black and white harness. Cut mine and like to be able to go back to stock at some point if I need to pull the box for a road trip or something.

Also not sure which is pos or neg either, assuming the line holds that all wires with stripes are neg, then the red is neg and black is pos, green is pos and white is neg, seems off to me.
 
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