2013 F150 Headlights listed on fordparts.com

[tuxedoblack11]

Hey guys I bought the wpt925 connectors but mine are not color coded like mentioned in the beginning of this thread. Mine are all green wires. There is a "1" and "4" on the connector so I'm guessing the pin out is 1,2,3,4 or is it 1,3,2,4 ?

Assuming it is 1,2,3,4 what wires need to connect to what?

Here is a picture I took of my connectors. I'm really hoping someone can help clarify this for me as I would love to complete my harness and install the lights tomorrow.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me! I just don't want to toast $950 head pits by wiring the up backwards or something lol.



Kenny

Pin 1 is low beam, 2 constant 12v hot, 3 high beam and 4 is ground. I wire the 1&2 together then splice to the low beam wire from your relay harness then the high beam goes to high beam and ground just gets an extension of wire to ground to the frame near the light.

Hope this helps bro:thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 08:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 AM ----------

Thanks hosseface, but I am actually looking for the harness inside the light housing that goes between the housing, the ballast, and the hi/low solenoid.

Unless I am mistaken, it should have the mate to the WPT 925 on one end, a little black 2-pin connector for the solenoid on another end, and then a larger 3-4 pin connector for the ballast on the third leg.

If you need the harness inside I have an inside man at ford that has two set aside for me. Let me know if you need em.

 

[justvettn]

What bolt do you guys use to bolt on or screw on the Morimoto ballast or power converter that you get with the new wiring harness to convert from 2012 to 2013 lights?

 

[carbonfiberunderpants]

I used a 1/4" rivet and attached mine to the upright support next to the radiator behind the rubber air dam/flap thing. When the flap is secured you wouldn't even know it's there. There was a factory wire mounted to the hole I put the rivet in with a plastic push-in mount that needed to be removed; I attached it with a stick on mount to the back of the relay box. I also added about 18" to the drivers side run of the harness so I could run the wires back behind the radiator and up across the top (you can see the loom in the first pic zip-tied to the main harness on top of the radiator) so I had a nice, clean install that looked as factory as possible.