2012

[Big Silver]

When I engage the 4WD and try to drive there is a very loud Thubung and it disengages the front wheels then reengages but 50 or so yards down the road it does it again. It like there is a gear only partialy engaged and it slips a tooth.
anybody have any ideas?

 

[Gatica]

Check the vacuum line for the 4x4

 

[Big Silver]

OK cool!
Hints? Where does the pipe start from
and end. Problem is probably in the actuator so left or right side. Is it an easy fix?
I dont spend a lot of time under the raptor cause it is pretty reliable.
This problem first came up on a back road to the race tracks in death valley
not a place to break down.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

You want to do a vacuum test on the iwe lines to see if they hold or not, if that passes, then make sure the actual switch is good and the front dif is always engaged as well. You might want to take it to a trusted dealer if it gets too complicated. If you have a buddy with fast legs, get him/her to watch the front axles and make sure they are continuously spinning when in 4h or at least the drive shaft is, should be able to see this if it is disengaging at low speed all the time.

 

[Big Silver]

Thats a tuffy to see that, no sand dunes around here to test .
Did talk with a dude ( friend of my nephew) that was on the
design team for the raptor. He said the defalt was to be in 4wd
and the vacume keeps it out of 4wd .
This is definetly mechanical like a cog clutch with rounded edges ,put pressure on and it slips out or a gear not fully engageing.
I read on this forum about a ring gear in the t case that needs replacing but they describe the symptoms differently.
Corona I like your car stable 69 stang was always my favorite
Is that a factory 427 in there? I had a Jeep YJ till just recently
and the 2012 raptor.
Cheers

 

[perry]

I’d recommend you do a search on here of independent wheel ends, IDE. Get your Google on, watch a little YouTube on ire’s. I’ve same vintage, similar drivability issues, it appears to be a pretty common thing with Fords. My particular issue was moisture getting into the tubes, gravity taking it to the IWE’s and the guts, springs that slide the engaging splines/ sleeve all rusted and cracked. if you wrench a little on the side it’s a pretty easy task to DYI. The only hiccup I had was not owning a torque wrench with enough capacity to re-torque the lower shock mounting bolt. Lots of internet how to’s on this issue. in short the vacuum system on your vehicle holds your IDW’s in the retracted, 2wd mode. When you call for 4wd a solenoid opens and bleeds the vac, springs in the IWE allow the sleeve to couple your drive hub and rotating front wheel drive shaft. Any issue w any of the parts throws a wrench in the works. I’ve seen lots of great posts on here on how to efficiently troubleshoot. Or, take it shop and support your local mechanic.