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Amazon ones worked about a year. Which is cheaper than 1 single oem. Last oem coil I bought back in February lasted about 8 months. Always with the defective one

I’ll add that changing them for piece of mind isn’t necessarily piece of mind. Be a real bummer to get one that wasn’t hardened fully or whatever and end up where you didn’t want to be anyway. The ones that have broken and been reported here seem to go for no apparent reason at relatively low...

Good lord don’t loosen the axle nut. Mind what you’re doing with the spindle and pry the lca down. Use some padding and protection not to mar it up and move on. I like gym floor type rubber. Easy to come by and easy to use.

Unless your going to go the all the way leave the springs alone. Use OE if you feel the need to proceed. 0 need for those springs unless your doing their cams and rockers for the extra umph.

I had some clown stop last week while washing my truck. Didn’t ask about the truck, he asked about my sleeper modded 02 Volvo with an offer of 1500. I told him I’d remove all aftermarket parts, stereo, and even blow the engine for him to get it to that price. Hopefully he won’t stop anymore.

Well off to a good start, 8 month old ford coil(#8 for the 3rd time) was arcing in a most gnarly way off the #6 injector. Popped in a spare and all is right for now. If another one fails this fast to hell with it I’m going to aftermarket next time. Makes me question my decision to use ford...

Right on nice truck. Dealerships say that about every car on their lot. I’m not saying it’s in bad shape but am saying don’t trust they checked everything especially fluids. My truck supposedly went thru the 120 point check or whatever had all fluids changed plugs and shocks. Long story short...

Very likely, not yet on the charger. Headers and tune, does rip. What delete did you use?

Thanks for the reply, I rebuilt it back in Dec of 21 with all new parts from ford. Seems to be happening every 80k miles or so. I’ll do it again if I can’t find a crush sleeve eliminator. They are available thru 11 model and mines a 14. Guessing that’s when the changes were made to splines and...

I did put a little dab on the threads. The pinion nut isnt staked like some cv joints. Service manual states to dab the drive shaft to flange bolts but nothing for the pinion nut itself. I put a little on thinking it would help. I don’t believe the nut to be backing off but rather the crush...

My rear pinion has come loose again. Not a big deal whatever I can fix it again. I’m hoping I’m just unlucky. It’s come loose at factory spec once and once on my own repair. I’m not sure what’s causing it. Anyone else been thru multiple crush sleeves? If so have you tried over torquing it a...

Right, I guess my my question is more if they can just flash all that without a key start. Like how I can flash with sct without a key start from stock to custom back to stock. I haven’t actually put my procharger on yet. When the recall came out my initial feeling was to stay the **** away...

How would this affect the the supercharged crowd that can’t fo back to stock and drive over? Flash a stock tune, ford flashes there update, then back to custom without a key start? Or better yet from the driveway?

I’m going to really resurrect the dead. Hey MTF , still holding on to this?

I didn’t think the cranks have a history of breaking or being “weak” at all. Maybe some of the window edition guys can confirm. Those guys with the crown Vic spun the **** out the factory crank.

Maybe have a welding shop try and run a good thick cap bead on that thing. Better yet have them weld the **** out of it. Better than eating it altogether.

Get on the Facebook ford raptor forum group. There’s some being made now.

Damn I wish I knew about the crush delete when I did mine. Seems like it’s the cause of all the problems. Maybe post the link for future use? Can’t hurt

Check your door harnesses. I had a draw from drivers rear door killing my battery. Pretty common for them to be replaced.

Glad you got it sorted. My response was genuine and can’t tell your skill level over the web but based on your questions felt obligated to make you think twice before getting into a bad spot. This is a thick skinned type of forum especially this section. All the best to ya man.

You’re in over your head if you are stuck on that or unwilling to make room to work. Stop now before you run into seized bolts in the head and put whatever you have off back together. Take it to a reputable shop or live with it. Not trying to be mean man but it’s more than a few bolts worth of...

For whatever reason I can’t upload a 15 second clip to the board.

1-7/8 long tube, no clue on comparable brand but if I had to guess I’d say ARH.

Front drive shaft. Remove it and party on

Right on, the set I got had decent enough welds. I’m sure some unlucky bastard will get or got a bad/wrong set. That’s just the way it goes. Will post a cold start in a bit when it’s civilized to do so on a Sunday. Good luck on the install and check your clearances on the passenger side. My set...