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Still got it!

Do you have any leaks at the rack? Get under there with a flashlight. If you aren't sure: clean it well, go for a drive where the symptom happens, then check the rack. Could be the bypass valve in the PS pump failing, could be the internal seals in the rack. You shouldn't even feel a lack of...

Federal law states you have to have OEM level cats, doesn't matter the state. So if they bother to do a visual check you will fail. However, depending on the county the entire emissions inspection may just be an OBD2 readiness check, so as long as you don't have rear O2 disabled you will likely...

Check your fluid level, bleed the system, make sure the seal on the reservoir cap is still good. This sounds like a fluid starvation issue. Can you better describe the scenario? Is this off-roading in low range or something?

If you are near a big city you can often find a place that will do an on the spot test and rebuild of your alternator. They can get OEM quality parts. The alternators are not very complex, the rotor and stator generate the voltage, the diode converts it to something usable, and the voltage...

See if anyone local on car-part has one or can get one, you can also try and call your local full-service yard, some of them are pretty well networked and can get you what you need. It will save you the shipping and you can do an on the spot inspection.

Its worth checking the "local" dealerships, depending on who it is they may have competitive pricing with tasca when you figure in shipping. I used to buy a lot from tasca, less now. The other guys mentioned in this thread already are pretty good go-to's. One other source is Car-part.com for...

Price reduction bump!

Yep, still have it.

@The Car Stereo Company nailed it. The other good use for them is if you want to run multiple items off of one circuit. Say you want all your aux lights to come on when you hit switch 4, you would daisy chain or split switch 4 into the signal section for however many relays are required. The...

Just start working through it 1 bolt at a time, it will be done before you know it.

Price reduced.

If bearings are a bit loose just run some rotella 20w50 and not even you will know >:)

The stock size rings from someone like Mahle are going to be file fit anyway. A simple hone job is only a few thousandths bore diameter. And I agree with @letsgetthisdone you need serious gap to cause problems. I would be looking at a minimum of a .021" top and .024" bottom. You could even go to...

It's usually done for people who have removed their cats, have had their cats damaged, or have moved them far enough downstream they are no longer efficient.

If you are running low grade fuel you will have a hard time hitting 15 mpg, these trucks pull a bunch of timing at cruise on low grade fuel. Also, if you drive at 75+mph you will not see over 15. Try setting your cruise at <65 and see what your economy does. Wide, tall truck with a lot of ground...

What I mean is cut the skid plate so that it is butted to the cam plate, then weld those together. That way you are not sandwiching anything extra. The cam plate needs to be a fixed member either way, and the skid plate is evidently designed to use some sort of anchor in that region.

Ahh, that's the solution. Get a set of the SPC alignment adjusters, install them, cut that tab at the adjuster and weld them together. The adjuster plate registers in a slot in the frame and is a fixed member.

Measure that upper blower pulley. p115e implies you have pegged the MAF. If the truck has had a smaller than stock upper pulley put on it you may be above the flow limit. It could also be a dirty or failing MAF; This is a take care of immediately type problem. p013e implies the PCM is seeing an...

Makes me a little nervous, I don't like the idea of the clamping force for the LCA being split between the LCA and the skid plate. I would think a hard hit on the skid would knock the alignment out as well. Maybe it isn't a real issue, but I think I would cut that mount tab off and fabricate a...

Check the harness that is between the cylinder head and the firewall on the passenger side near the PCM. I think my fuse 72 blew when that harness wore through. Trace the wires from the starter back to the main harness, look for abrasion or removal of the sheathing. Check for Scotch Lock...

Didn't realize it was a gen 1 issue?