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SOLD Please delete

Congrats, love the color!

Decided to sell.... I think...

Looks clean, if you aren't off road a lot and like your truck for driving I think it is a great look!

Had my hood latch go bad on my 19 and it did the same

Don't use one on the truck but had a Wilco on my old Outback and it worked well for years. Kept it when I traded in the vehicle in case I wanted it on a future build.

Hood latched replaced on my 2019 last year for same issue

I don’t remember mine being welded... if they are, fine-line? Or, dremel welds and Fusor back together. Won’t come apart easy, but it won’t come apart easy!

Got photos? Mine disassembled and reassembled without breaking

A good paint shop will blend adjacent panels to ensure color match. To just make a blanket statement like “a good shop....” won’t change the fact that material acts differently according to the surface that was painted. Plus, “a good shop” can match black with black pretty easy, Leadfoot is a...

Wraps are great for their purpose. Wouldn’t want to be the asshole cleaning all that adhesive off when you want to go back to OE though!!

Too many times the shops, to their own detriment, don’t explain the process and leave people with unrealistic expectations. In this case, I’m sure the dealer told you everything would be perfect without ever consulting the body shop themselves. I can see the difference you’re talking about but...

You’ll never get an exact match with plastic (flares) to metal (fenders, quarters, bumpers) no matter how hard you try. We do our best to mitigate this by blending color when we paint vehicles. Adding to the issue of different substrates, each color code has a different set of variants. Your...

Price is relative to color and extent of work, as you’d imagine. Takes a whole lot more money to spray Ruby Red than Oxford White. When/if you ever pick one up I can quote accordingly!

Haven’t yet, forgot to put it back on. Making a note to do that Monday. Leadfoot would look fantastic! We are doing a J10 Gladiator in black and leadfoot, looks slick so far!

Base/clear. It’ll get rash on snow banks and whatnot so it’ll need to be painted in the future.

Wheel shop closed and pin stripe guy stopped taking new work. Will update when she is done!

You want to clean whatever you prepped before applying your material. As far as which is better, I’d refer to paint company you’re using to spray. We spray PPG at our body shop so I use their adhesion promoter and solvent wash

They are two separate chemicals. One to clean the surface, one to promote adhesion to the surface

If you’re using adhesion promoter then you only need to scuff until dull before prepping with solvent remover

As Mr Tits above me states, you can absolutely do it at home and don’t need the full process I did. You won’t have the depth in color, but won’t need it if you’re doing black. Only things I’d add to his process is clean with high-test isopropyl (91% if you can get it) after scuffing before...

We spray water at our shop, PPG Envirobase, so it was a quick red scuff then we sealed them (vs regular primer since it’s thinner) straight gold tint as basecoat, clear and bake. I used an expensive tint but if I had to charge someone to do it with a normal color it’d probably be reasonable...

Base/clear no problem after 7k