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I ran some diagnostics with my Pro-Cal - two DTCs - - P2C0C - no description - P0000 - no description - P1703 - Brake Switch Out Of Self Test Range can't find anything on the first two - on the third, sounds like the brake switch fault - however - wouldn't the truck tell me to "press the brake...

interesting - I have the same issue - posted here.... https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/brake-pedal-wont-depress-cant-start-truck.94595/ I have noticed my shirting has 'new' harsh moments.....

Has this non-start issue ever happened since?

Here's an update - turns out it's nothing to do with the brake pedal. IF the truck sits for an hour or two - it starts and runs fine. If I am driving, stop and park, and try to restart it (either right away, or within an hour) - it won't start. All the light come on, all the dash, radio, hvac...

Be interesting what will happen with EVs

Most modern sports cars do this - they have to meet external noise regulations so amplify the driver’s experience with augmentation

Weird issue. Truck drove fine - pulled into parking lot, turn off, jumped out. About an hour later - jumped in - went to push the brake pedal down to start the truck - and the pedal would not budge - so I could not start the truck. I smashed on it, looked to see if something came loose...

I have not been to a dyno yet - on the Cobb tuner - which has seemed pretty accurate throughout these upgrades - reads 721hp, 637 ft/lbs. THe results seem pretty close to results Winfield gets with similar setups on his dyno.

Yup - he can’t do anything with Ford logos any longer - I got the last stuff .. used him many times.

Same ones I use

Well - if the thought was - battery weak and when I step on the gas the alternator makes up for additional voltage/amperage - see in my last post Same behavior when the truck was turned off. everything dead, slight push on the accelerator pedal - everything works. Again - truck off.

Here's was one of the funny moments. Truck is off. Driver's door open. the unlock/lock buttons on the door not working. I lean over a barely push the accelerator. the unlock/lock buttons work. - same with the radio on/off knob/volume/knob, AC controls, air bag readiness, blind spot, .... all...

in the 110 degree heat in Texas.....

Nope - coincidentally new battery two weeks ago. I dig into the accelerator - unplugging the one connector - made no difference. So I grabbed and moved the cables coming out of the top (no connectors in sight) and sure enough - it’s fix….. For now - something is obviously loose/kinked

well - here's a twist.... driving - everything works - as long as my foot is on the gas pedal. once I pull my foot off - everything dies - the radio volume/power, the door locks, the airbags, the blind spot, the ac ...etc - I touch the gas - everything works. even when parked and not running -...

door locks don't work, ac doesn't work, radio power on/off doesn't work, srs disabled, blind spot detector disabled, ..... it's like the CAN bus has been interrupted

I'm throwing - U0199 - lost communication with door control module a - U0200 - lost communication with door control module b - U0252 - lost communication with lighting control module - rear b - U0256 - lost communication with front controls interface module - U0164 - lost communication with...

It’s not just about keeping the heat off the realist of the engine bay - but keeping the heat in the turbo - (from the link I posted above) A turbo blanket improves the performance of your turbocharger by keeping "the hot side hot". In keeping the exhaust gases within the turbocharger hot...

https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/new-turbos-in.86259/

PTP makes them for most resellers - https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/pages/why-use-a-turbo-blanket I ran these from Cobb for years - https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/turbo/ford-turbo-blanket-f-150-ecoboost-raptor-limited-3-5l Until I upsized my turbos

I've done a lot of bolt-ons - nothing internal - Cobb tuner telling mt 721hp and 637 lb-ft. It seemed pretty accurate when I was only stock, and then as I have added the mods over time. I've posted a couple of manuals on the Garrett GT2260s turbo swaps and the fuel upgrades. Here's a video of...

I went through two of the plastic ones - they finally warp bad enough you cannot tighten them to stop. I converted to a metal one that the later model years come with stock. it's a big job...... here's a thread on it -...

I was only throwing misfires on the driver's side bank - 4,5,6 - swapped plugs, tested coils. Then looked at all the hoses and tubes that were hanging of that side of the intake. Once through all that - I was either dealing with a cam/cam phaser issue - or something common to those three...

I did AMS inlet pipes, SPD downpipes, SPD turbo exhaust adapters The AMS piping is 3" all the way to the turbo - but if you are using stock turbos, you have to use a reducer (come with the kit) to match the smaller turbo inlet - so you loose some of that potential gain. if you upgrade your...