This is a pretty well documented issue with IWE dating back to 2004.
The issue is on pre torsen vehicles you did not get the shock loading of the locking ring. Which causes an accelerated wear and dread pop of death. With torsen if one side fails it causes the other side to fail due to the...
They are working on it. Getting all the kinks worked out. They have a 3rd generation that works but it is hell on IWE and needle bearings in hub assembly. Hopefully by the first of the year the prototype upgrades will be ready for testing.. I will keep everyone up to date..
My suggestion is to...
The IWE only have a 1/4" of interface with the splines on the axle. This system works fine (sort of for street queens) and no front torsen. The metal on the locking collar is considerably softer than axles. When Ford/borg warner designed them the IWE acts like a drive train fuse to keep from...
Suspension is not going to be the problem.. If you have a Torsen front diff, you WILL be tearing up the IWE's!
The 1/4" metal interface of the locking ring is not strong enough and you will end up rounding the teeth..
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
The bracket bolt and nut is not what is loosening up. It is the part in between the light body and stainless bracket that is loose. No matter how much locktite, tightening, the whole light itself is loose while the stainless u shaped bracket is tight. . There is one small allen set screw that...
As long as the harness is the same, you can just carry an extra module.. I keep a generic relay with pigtails on it, just in case my craps out.
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
I agree with checking the grounds and all connections. FIRST! Most if not all problems come from that..
If not any of the above, the next most common point of failure is the module.. After 3 revisions of this module with Dawson, so far no more issues.
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
I have had the same thing happen to mine.. Since Dawson will most likely send a new harness and control module. You can make an emergency bypass by cutting the harness at the controller and hardwiring it.. As soon as I get home I will dig out my notes.
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
Congrats! You have worked your butt off to provide the best HID Retrofit for 2010 and up F150s. Your pride and dedication to products and customers is the reason for your continued growth and success.
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
As long as you use a non-metallic spray paint, you should not have any issues...I used kylon fusion with no loss that I can tell from signal meter in the lowrance..
(from my personal experience, results may vary)
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
It is not a loss...
Because of Mr. Ross and never ending pursuit of Raptor excellence. LPR, and LPR 2.0 pushed the development of a lot great products, companies, and people. He did the unthinkable and brought together all these vendors and got them to work together on something. You only have...
2010 5.4/6.2 (open front diff) no issues major issues reported
2011 6.2 (open front diff) no issues besides broken solenoids/vacuum lines
2012 6.2 (torsen front diff) issues are observed in all Raptors that have used 4wd (off pavement, snow, mud, sand).
-Greg (aka squatting dog)
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