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I’d be curious roughly how long did it take, a guesstimate on cost, any specialty tools needed, source for parts and such.

Push through!

Are any of the hoses around your BEVIS, and brake booster hose where it connects to the manifold at a sharp bend. I had a sorta kinda similar issue. I think the hoses were rigid enough when cold, but after the engine ( compartment) warmed up, they flexed enough to collapse under vacuum causing...

Solid maybe. I’m driving my first 2012. Drove it for about 6 months before adding the Whipple SC. The truck was adequately powered before the SC, but is a completely different truck with it, all for the better. The only complaints are my tune requires 91 octane (it’s no where to be found)...

When’s the last time you replaced spark plugs and do you have a scan tool to monitor misfires per bank. Additionally the individual coil pack gets a little corroded after a couple 6-8 years and can raise some havoc. Probably not your shifting issue but certainly sounds like your stall issue.

Ford made a block designated FE. Nothing to do with the composition of the block. Fe iron versus aluminum. Maybe a misunderstanding?

52 driving a 2012 that I think I paid 62k for. I know it was less than a loaded out F150 at the time.

2012 - stock screw less whipple ~7000 lbs on the scale.

24.5” eye to eye On rear, 2012 screw, stock suspension

Same issue on 2012. Also fuel line clamp at the fuel rail on drivers side loosened up and leaked a bit, It was harder than it should have been to find. After initial cold start at an idle flex the connection a bit and observe if it leaks. Once the engine becomes warm its pretty hard to find...

I’d stick with what you have and try it out a few times before modifying your truck suspension. Pulled a 28’ trophy on a tripple axel trailer for a number of years with no issues but sag. 2012 SCREW with whipple SC. Rear sag is the only issue. I positioned the boat a little less than a 1...

After going through all this the long way w a 6.8 V10 I’d highly recommend buying a kit from promax or manibolt. The weld method might work great for a block that’s out of the engine bay or if you’re just lucky on which stud it is and you can actually reach it. In reality I could reach very...