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I did a BMS reset the other day because it dawned on me that the battery had been installed recently. Guessing that some random outlet car dealership wouldn’t know to do the reset. The truck definitely runs better, but it still stalls at idle. It will idle up when the a/c clutch kicks in, so...

@red_mr2 Are you doing a full re-learn after swapping throttle bodies? The one and only time I have ever gotten that P2111 code is with a non-OEM new throttle body. I swapped my original back on after letting the truck sit overnight. I disconnected both the + and - battery terminals and put a...

I cut out about 12” of wire for each, so hopefully I got it. The fuse relocation is good to go. It’s a real head scratcher.

Maybe. I had several more stall events captured in the log. I had to do some reading on how the FPDM, FP, and PCM interact to understand what I was seeing in the log, but it looks like everything is doing what it should do. I just can’t tell if the culprit causing the stall is being captured...

Overkill for sure, but I count at least 2 previous repairs and my 2 repairs. It is very obvious that something hit the harness at the lowest point as the plastic loom is broken and the damaged wires were right behind it. On another note… I captured the “ghost in the machine” while data...

Yes. At operating temp, mine idles at 600 rpm. When I hook up ForScan, it shows an expected idle of 600 rpm and usually bumps above and below that for actual rpm. I may just buy a new rear frame wiring harness for peace of mind. I am wondering if the damaged wires need to be cut back further...

Took it for a drive. At first the truck ran great. I never noticed, but it would not idle forward as I released the brake from a stop before I fixed these 2 wires. Afterward, it pulled uphill as I came off the brake pedal at a stop light. Then it happened… while I was stopped in line for...

Guess what I found? I finally had enough time to crawl around under the truck tracing all the wiring looms. The one that runs along the driver’s side frame rail that is prone to damage at the forward cab mount was, well… damaged. I pulled it apart and it was packed with mud. I cleaned each...

I have been reading everything I can today about what goes on during idle. @FordTechOne is absolutely correct regarding the oem expected idle. Something is causing the idle to drop. I am now focusing my attention on the crankshaft position sensor. Looking for a way to test it without pulling...

Not yet, but I’ll look at it this weekend. Everything I have done so far, except changing the plugs and coils, has been in between getting home from work and dinner. I have not really had enough time to dedicate to figuring this out. Whatever it is, it only happens at operating temps when...

I remembered late last night that I have an unlocked Bully Dog tuner in my tool chest “junk” drawer. Had it for a Nissan Xterra to, coincidentally, increase the idle RPM. Their website says that my Raptor is supported. I’ll update it tonight after work and see if I can get it to work on my...

I am fairly confident that IAC is part of the electronic throttle body and controlled by the PCM. I’ll tackle the drain this weekend. Need to make sure it is not clogged with gunk before I stick an elbow on it.

@BenBB Thanks. My battery has a 4/22 build sticker on it. I put a multimeter on it today and it is good. At face value… there is nothing obviously wrong with this truck. I have spent a great deal of time laying under the truck shaking all the harnesses with no recreation of the stall. I’ve...

The video I watched showed the tech checking voltage going into the FPDM (pin 1) and then going out of the FPDM to the FP (pin 5). It had good input voltage, but as the vehicle continued to idle, the output voltage of the FPDM would steadily drop until the vehicle stalled.

More like “whack-a-mole”

@FordTechOne. Thanks for stopping in. I agree with your advice. I am trying very hard not to go down the path of tossing parts at it. Some of what I have done is just maintenance items, but the throttle body was definitely a “let’s see if this works” attempt.

Update- I went through all the vacuum lines last night checking for leaks. I pulled the check valves and verified that they still worked. I did not discover any obvious leaks. When I created a leak by removing the check valve at the manifold vacuum supply line, the engine idle loped as you...

That was my thought with the fuel pump driver module. It’s on the old Fuse 27 circuit and could have been damaged prior to the relocate. I found a video that showed the fuel pump driver losing voltage on the output side to the fuel pump. I replaced mine, but it didn’t fix the stalling issue.

That’s frustrating. Especially since it could cause a fire.

The absence of codes is the most frustrating part. Truck runs great other than this issue. I have new check valves and hoses on the way. Next thing I’ll look into is the intake manifold gasket.

Yeah. A vacuum leak is the first thing that I started looking for. I checked the IWE valve and hoses, looked at the manifold vacuum supply hose, and PCV valve and hose. Looking at the parts catalogs, it appears that Ford discontinued the manifold vacuum supply line for 2011-2012 6.2L F150’s...

I have also been suspicious of the electronic throttle body. Specifically whatever part is responsible for idle air control. Honestly, I think if I could bump the idle up to say 750 rpm that might solve the issue. If I am able to keep the rpm’s up in the stop and go traffic, it will not...

I went out and pumped the brakes up with the truck off and it built pressure and held it. Started the truck with the brake pedal still pressed and it slowly pressed to the floor. Seems at first glance that the brake booster is good. There are multiple vacuum lines/check valves tied into the...

…And just like that, when I was parking in the garage at work this morning, I was able to get it to start to stall by pumping the brakes hard a couple times. It compensated and jumped the rpm’s up over 1000 and then settled down. Brake booster. Has to be a vacuum leak due to a failing brake...

2012 here. I have the exact same issue. Been working through the same steps as you. It only happens to my truck in stop and go traffic and only after it has been running for 15-20 minutes first. (Heat soak?) Mine cuts out at the same exact spot everyday on my way home from work. Like...