That's good, mode blend motor and door sounds like it's working, usually you'll hear a loud click when the motor dies (like REALLY frickin' loud, first time I heard it I thought some little ********** shot a window with a BB gun haha!) and every time you start the truck as they all cycle and...
You can definitely pull the blower motor first and see what you can see from there, it's been a while since I did it so it's possible I did the flushing from there and not through the hole, the parts book doesn't really show the position of the evap very well.
But yes definitely rule out other...
I also had the blower motor removed but it doesn't really help with access, but would let you non-destructively take a look at the evap, the borescope I got recently would have been awesome to do so. The hole is covered back up by the foil tape so I don't see it being an issue. Through that...
Ok here's some pics, hopefully helps someone. So behind the glovebox, notice the Dynamat/Killmat foil tape with goey black shit backing:
Peeled that back and bored a 1/2" hole (just pull the glovebox or let it hang there):
Peeking through the hole with my phone camera, evap still looks good:
Ok some of these pics are where I pulled the blower motor and shoved phone up there, but this is the intake side (RH) of the evaporator. Previous owner must have hated recirc and loved eating dust. Before:
Another:
Soaked with Simple Green:
Rinsed out:
Like you everything else checked out...
Mine was clogged evaporator, drilled a little hole in the heater box behind that Killmat-looking tape to see how bad (it was really bed, can post pics tomorrow from my comp), soaked with Simple Green and flushed with a water hose. Redneck solution perhaps but better than removing literally half...
They are air deflectors, to channel air into the radiator, and notoriously deteriorate rapidly. I used the old torn up ones as a pattern and built some out of 40mil HDPE, not real sure how effective they are but anything to help cooling is a good thing. I wouldn't buy OEM ones, they will fall...
Other thoughts; battery getting old? Before I replaced mine recently, it seemed to crank longer when cold. Added any injector cleaner lately? I throw a bottle of Lucas in mine when I change the oil (along with drain & refill P/S fluid, and clean MAF whenever I change air filter). Using good...
Hmm I hear a ginormous pissed-off bumble bee lodged in your sliding rear window. And tire noise. Ima go down there and swap in my stock wheels and KO2's with like 40k miles on 'em, and we can eliminate that from the equation!! I still say check transfer case, pull the codes for whatever else...
Or hopefully someone who has heard it before can assist!! I haven't had any issues on mine like that but previous owner damn sure rode it hard and put it up wet so I'm following along for future reference heh. That said, I'd swap those transfer case solenoids since you have 'em to see if it...
If you didn’t loosen the LCA pivot bolts I’d just get the toe in/out “close enough” with the steering wheel centered and eyeballing the tires, check with a tape measure and match front/rear as @CoronaRaptor said (I think spec is pretty close to zero anyway?). Also unless you know the alignment...
https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2011-ford-f-150--svt-raptor--6-2l-v8-gas/front-drive-axle--differential
If it’s not IWE’s might be CV’s (which I think you have), hopefully not the diff…
I went from mid perch on freshly rebuilt to Geisers bottom perch recently and think it’s well worth it; soaks up little stuff like stock at bottom perch without the brake dive. The rear really depends on you, my deavers and svc bumps are nice but unless you really push it don’t make a huge...
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