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Awesome post, much appreciated. My neighbor is a Nam vet, as was my dad, I talk to them every chance I get and both were exposed to Agent Orange. Good to hear you get to see Thom again, cheers buddy. Here's Bob a couple days ago, he flew medivac into the lungs of hell and I'm lucky to know him:

You might want to see what develops first, or see if you can source a Bosch master cylinder instead of the Hitachi...before I posted this thread I searched and found another with brake issues: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/2017-master-cylinder-brake-booster-failure.78120/

Well that sucks. Here's hoping the lawsuit prompts an actual solution (i.e. Bosch replacement).

Curious, yours wasn't part of the recall I guess? Did the shove another Hitachi in there?

Very nice!! Good to see 2-strokes alive and well too :peace:

I don't either but I think my truck was originally sold in TX. Guess we wait and see...

Got a postcard today, class action lawsuit for "2013-2018 F150 Hitachi step-bore master cylinder that was not part of a recall Ford issued in 2020". According to the VIN check on their website www.Fi150brakelitigation.com mine's one of 'em, guessing I'm not the only one here...

Got a postcard today, class action lawsuit for "2013-2018 F150 Hitachi step-bore master cylinder that was not part of a recall Ford issued in 2020". According to the VIN check on their website www.Fi150brakelitigation.com mine's one of 'em...

Bienvenidos!

8 hours for me but it's on the wish list...

I've heard these work... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FXSRKV/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

The connector pictured is the heater resistor, they are solid state now (used to be a little coil spring) but still, could fail…

Pressure side looks kinda tiny! But I never got to that fluid dynamics engineering class so can't say with any certainty...

Well they will if you have the right fitting on the end of the hose, looks like JIC maybe? But also looks like they might be threaded in there, so swap out just the fitting for a hose barb x MPT or whatever thread it is?

I doubt they've carried engineered obsolescence quite that far, they all looked the same internally to me. But on mine one press of the fob unlocks the driver door, a second press unlocks the other three, and lock makes them all lock at once. So really the driver's door should wear out first...

I agree, it is either the doorjamb harness or the actuator itself, very common and best to rule out the wiring first. Mine didn't feel like locking all the time and it really pissed me off, as even if you noticed one door didn't lock, you couldn't even force it to lock with the knob. They...

Just need Aux 1 wired to taser seat, Aux 2 Trunk Monkey...

I would keep the keypad, and definitely do the punch plug and Jimmy Jammers if you're in there anyway. Still a chance of glass breaking of course but just seeing the punch plug will deter some of the jackholes.

Appreciate the update, and good to hear it more or less worked out for you.

Buddy of mine has one, scary fast...I got dibs if he ever sells haha!

X2

Thanks @The Car Stereo Company for letting us know, I wondered where he was. Gone but not forgotten, I’m going to miss my Canadian friend. This one’s for you buddy.

It does seem like an odd place to plate the way they did, but Ford probably had their reasons...maybe it was meant to be cathodic to save the frame? It seems placed where road salt splashing up from the front tire might eat the frame.

Passenger side (I removed the swaybar).

That’s really bad, here’s my filthy ‘13: