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This is the knucklehead girl 2drs away. She "came in a little hot" and drifted through a 5' chain link fence. She was sitting in the cab, couldn't figure out how to extricate her SUV.

The DOT "Fees" are ridiculous. That's why none of the aftermarket beadlock wheels have their approval. My 2012 ecoboost headlight bulbs from Headlight Revolution are not DOT approved for the highway either, but they are the best replacement option available.

What's the preload setting you used on those CAS mounts? I couldn't find a real number (for a Gen 1 application) on the SVC website. I believe there was a recommendation for a G2 with an aftermarket bumper & winch, though.

After the bed was removed, I noticed the (white) ground wire insulation for the fuel pump module was somehow rubbed off, against the bottom of the bed(?) Had to strip away 6", and for now its got 2 layers of heat shrink tubing. I've got rolls of different colored electrical tape (somewhere)...

Ford intentionally set the engine a little bit closer to the P-side frame rail, to maintain clearance from the fixed position of these 4WD differentials, which sit closer to the D-side frame rail. The older "Twin I beam" design also had the floating diff offset towards the left to clear the oil...

When I had my 2011 model rebuilt (in 2022) the local shop I was referred to charged $50+$100 for the rebuild kit+labor. I'm not sure what those rates are today, and I don't think I'd want a burnt unit rebuilt, but that seems like a fair price for a bench rebuild.

Fixed it.

I'll get a picture up in a minute. I'm in Hesperia near the 395 & Main. Where you at?

I removed the rear bumper off my 2011 last month, (just bought the Newline prerunner bumper). It's pretty clean, no rust or dents.

It looks better than mine right now.

Gotta have pictures, or it didn't happen. Until then, you can use this.

Pro tip: If you grind off the "5" on the "35" (printed on the sidewall), and use a paint marker to add a "7" instead, everybody on Instagram thinks you have 37's. follow my page for more free Raptor hacks

This one, unfortunately, isn't ok.

This is a 2011 with 148XXX miles. Clean, no significant metals found by the test lab, no burnt smell.

"As far as tire cost at $100 / sweating rear diff cost at $0, he didn’t want to put $1500 for new tires and 500-1500 for rear differential issue". That "Rear Diff Issue" is the priority. Is it a leak, a grinding sound, or not accelerating normally? Can you pull a sample of the gear oil for lab...

Then it's a good thing that 37's aren't actually 37" tall.

Is the vent tube still connected?

Much like a gun in your home. When you suddenly need it, it's too late.

Here's an interesting comparison: Ford's Raptor-spec Gen 1 front shock sells for around $440, while the generic F-150 shocks go for around $45 (RockAuto). Meanwhile, a set of generic front brake calipers, rotors & pads is $360-410, while the Wilwoods retail for around $1700 (for calipers...

So.... they paid for themselves by avoiding a collision, including both property damage and personal injuries. Good to know.

The Gen 1 UCA's were designed to be as inexpensive as possible (IMHO) as it was a limited production version of the cash cow F-150. (That's why the leaf springs, brakes, spindles, shock buckets, etc were off the shelf parts). FoMoCo didn't know if the Raptor version would do well; the first...

Following.

Honestly, the fact that kalifornistan registration fees for a 13yo Raptor are still over $600/year, plus the insurance will be a lot higher than my DD 2012 ecoboost SCAB is; plus the ridiculous fuel taxes here....

Harbor Freight is scheduled for their big sale next(?) week. That $319 Badlands Jack might be on sale then.

"morimoto has a 3 year warranty.. i suspect that might be changing, being 3 years in and on my 3rd set.." you haven't heard of my brilliant plan to make parts last: Drive 600mi the day after Christmas to purchase it from a stranger (after a 2min test drive); get it home, drive it for 10...