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From what Jeff said, nobody really bought the kit so it made more sense to prioritize marketing towards the mid travel kit

1. In theory you can do that, but you won’t be able to perfect your alignment, weld everything to your lower control arm, and make sure your caster and camber don’t move throughout the entire process. Also, if you get a different brand of tie rod that happens to be slightly longer or shorter or...

SVC doesn’t offer the podium package anymore. I called them last week trying to clarify what they have and haven’t discontinued and they no longer sell the dual shock front kit

The mid and long travel kits are not the same and are not capable of the same amount of controlled travel. The mid travel kits like SVC are meant for the people who just want something plug and play. Stock coil bucket, stock length shocks, reversible. Then you have kits in the middle like the...

Heim ends are no louder or harder to maintain than the uniballs that BOTH the heim and bushing arms come with. I have 10,000 miles on my camburg arms including a lot of hard off-roading and have had to do no service other than lubing them every so often when they get loud.

Just for reference I have king coilovers, an Svc bypass rack, and icon rear bypasses with icon leaf springs. I wouldn’t do a cantilever setup. There’s no point besides keeping bed space and the motion ratio of the shocks is all off. Ideally you want a 1:1 ratio of shock to axle movement which...

On my rigid bar and my pods I simplified the power and ground using “solder seal” connectors then used the clamp style splice connectors to split them off to each individual light. Worked perfectly, and all those connectors are dirt cheap on Amazon.

There’s a dude selling his rear icon 3.0’s for $1k asking price. That’s a solid deal and I really like my icon bypasses...

What did it sell for? Thinking of long traveling my Gen 1 and I’m trying to get a gauge of what stock ones are selling for

Sick truck, how I would have built a Gen 2. Seems like a good deal for someone

I just live with it. Can barely hear it with the music on and the windows up. I take the truck out in the desert once a week and would be far too time consuming to take everything apart every time...

Currently have the Ford performance resonator delete and plan on adding an x pipe and getting rid off the stock mufflers for a smaller muffler with a fender exit soon

The Icons have squeaked since day one, as have my camburg shackles, and the uniball arms make a shit load of noise as soon as they see any dirt no matter how well lubricated they are

I have icons and they squeak as well...honestly at this point I’ve just learned to accept it. Every damn aftermarket part on this truck squeaks

If your truck is stock why would you need aftermarket CV axles for thousands of dollars? Sure they’re stronger than stock but with a stock truck you probably won’t even be driving it hard enough on dirt to really want them. Autozone ones are $100 and they’ll replace them for free every time they...

Opened up my intake to replace the stock filter after my last off-road trip and found a ton of silt all over the inside of the intake and the throttle body was covered as well. Clearly the stock filter isn’t doing its job. As far as aftermarket air filters go, what has the best filtration?

Sold

Went on a Ford dealership’s parts website and they only had one part listed for the rear, and then went to a different site and they had 2. Don’t see how it would make any difference as all of the aftermarket manufacturers sell one rear shock for both cab styles

I ended up waiting on it but I talked to body shops about figment and they all said basically all the aftermarket fiberglass requires modification to fit properly

Got 37’s but kept the stock offset wheels and have not had any rubbing so have put off fenders until my budget allows. Ended up not getting that front end because I would’ve had to buy headlights and a new tube bumper for a Gen 2 front end

There is only 1 part number sold by Ford and it covers both cab styles

No. Everything is the same suspension wise.

Phoenix. Anyone that does off-road fabrication should definitely be able to fix that.

It’s probably far cheaper just to pay someone who does fabrication work to cut out the messed up sections of frame and re-plate it. The guy that does the custom work on my truck charges like $70 an hour to do side work. That’s way cheaper than buying an entirely new frame and swapping stuff over.

They’re in great shape. Only 7,500 miles.