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I'm selling mine, and it has the Tailgate step, take a look. https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/2010-1-2-whipple-supercharged-fully-loaded-scab-with-36-755-miles-48k.90016/

There is a pressure test that can be done to see if the cat has failed. Bunch of videos about that on YouTube. I'm assuming the exhaust system is still from the previous engine failure. Something could have destroyed the Honeycomb in the cats and/or damaged the front O2s Injectors not working...

You shouldn't be running the engine, you might be doing more damage. Could be the cam phasers aren't working but just guessing. Did you pull any codes with a OBDII reader?

Hopefully it's something simple or just overlooked. Do you know if it's running a Tune? And are you using 91 octane or better 93? If you're 89 or 87 that could be one of your issues.

Nope You need to understand that the Raptor's PCM does engine management from the thrust calculation of the output of the tranny and visa-versa. If you try a standalone ECU then the tranny won't work.

On average Whipple and Roush installed complete on low to mid mileage engines have ranged from $9,500 to $14,000, this all depends on what kit and where. And these prices are from years ago so I'm sure it's gone up. Procharger is the cheapest route but not Raptor friendly. And don't take that...

Nope mine doesn't come that close at all, full stock exhaust with Deavers +2 And Traction bars and Hellwig Rear Sway-bar. At Full Droop it comes close

@Aldo0280 I would give RPG and SVC a call, they are Raptor Off-Road Performance specific shops. Both are vendors on here as well. They might be willing to tell you of good tranny shops. And maybe for the rear. Wheel hop usually does that with the E-Locker, may want look into traction bars...

Nailed it!!!

LOL, I just clicked on the link I posted, not even close to a ring of any kind, WTF

If you're in Brookhaven, Long Island, you should try KHC in New Jersey. They have the latest tire equipment machines and know how to align the Raptor. They well get it right, I don't like Road Force, it hides the under lying problem of the tires. While I like the BFG KO2s, there quality control...

The fuse thing is a good idea, at least change the fuse to a mini instead of the micro. I didn't do the relocation, but I did change the fuse way back in 2012. The micro fuse blades are not wide enough, and that makes the connection at the edge of the blades creating a hot spot.

That filter is dry and you should be cleaning and oiling more often. I bought a second filter so I can clean and oil one while the other one is in the truck.

LOL, you didn't mention that. I happen to like the BFG, I like the speed rating most of all.

Yeah, that's because they are 315/70 not 35/12.5

That's all I wanted to do, I mean all that work and have a stupid little leak and trying to figure it out why it's leaking. Just looking out for you. You're probably good but if it does leak you know what to do.

Whipple Charged and daily driven in NYC traffic 10 mpg. Highway 11.7-12.3 @65+ mph.

Are you sure about the O-ring? There are plenty of auto parts websites that say the O-ring part number has been replace. It could be that Ford did do something but just guessing at this point. Most of us 6.2L guys need the thermostat ring that goes around the thermostat. These are aftermarket...

Yes it ties into a uplifter switch. All it does is send the right voltages just like the PCM would. There is another thread with a different product but does the same thing. Just can't find it using the forum search...

All Raptors have E-Locker diffs. So, I don't know what is going on with that??? @Kramer29163 And no, you can't just hot wire the diff, you'll burnout the magnet. But you can buy a kit to to hookup to a uplifter or tie into the pull knob.

So now it's had over a week for the oil to soak into the cotton and then I gently pat the filter with paper towels to soak up any excess oil. This will ensure that the MAF sensor won't get a coating of oil.

My understanding with the valvetrain ticking noise the first few seconds at startup is: The cam phasers need oil pressure to unlock the pins and start operating, it's that simple!!!

Yup, that last video doesn't sound bad to me. I switch up to 5W 30 weight almost two years ago and it does help with the valves tapping a few seconds at startup. I like the Nylon/Teflon pulley better than the steel one, the Nylon/Teflon is gentler on the belt. Especially when Supercharged.

Rear E-brakes shoes, rotors and brake line fittings are different between 2010 and (2011-2012) and (2013-2014) Gear ratio is the same for all years for the Raptor. Axle splines are different but not sure when the change took place. I believe the rear brake pads are the same throughout the Gen 1...

Is the climate control set to auto? I ask because it usually makes the air conditioner compressor run right at startup. Try starting the truck with the climate control off and see if it makes the noise.