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Hate to be the bearer of bad news but it's important you know before you do final assembly. You are going to lose quite a bit of output due to your enclosure size. .18 cu ft is a lot. You can try some poly fill but again, .18 cu ft is a lot to compensate for. At 112 db, a 2 db difference is...

That will work!

Yes, just make sure it’s fused.

Yes. Distribution block.

It is for multiple amplifiers should you need it. They are redundant but there in case you need it.

Kinda but all three sets of front left and right rcas are exactly the same signal. They are all exactly the same.

You don’t need to use the sub output of the zen. The zen has 3 sets of front left and right channels. You take left and right from front left and right out of the zen and run left and right to your amp. You utilize the crossover on your sub amp to take this full frequency signal and apply an...

Yes. But it does not include tweeter channels. You will need to run separate wires to each a-pillar.

No. The tweeters are not a part of that harness because the B&O system utilizes the headunit to provide signal for the tweeters. You CANNOT use the factory tweeter wires at each a-pillar for signal because they are connected directly to the headunit. You can only use that aftermarket harness for...

This is correct. Don’t use the subwoofer wiring in the harness.

Yes, it is adequate up until about 2500 watts. Then you need to start upgrading power wiring. Alternator is plenty powerful though.

Ch 1/2 tweeters Ch 3/4 mids Ch 4/5 rear Run all wire down door sill. I think pulling power and ground wire through drivers side is easier but it’s up to you.

No. You only need two channels of input for the front and two channels of input for the rear. Front left and right (ch1/2) is a full frequency signal. From 20hz - 20,000hz. This signal is then split by your dsp and cut into specific frequency ranges based on the type of speaker. 20,000hz-...

If you are NOT using a dsp DO NOT run active.

From a tuning and sound quality perspective, absolutely. The VXI dsp has 10 bands of equalization per channel of output. When you run active, each speaker gets its own channel. That means if you have two tweeters and two midbass, you have 40 bands of equalization at your disposal. Each...

That is called an Active Crossover Network. Each speaker gets its own dedicated amplifier channel. Tweeters would take 2 channels, midbass 2, rear 2. Then you would add a sub amp. The VXI can control any external amp you connect.

I think the wrong terminology is being used here and that is what is invalidating your point. Hear me out. Phase and polarity are different. I think maybe what you are trying to say is that you are swapping polarity to bring a speaker INTO phase? That “phase switch “you are referring to doesn’t...

Dude, what is your deal? I know Jacob and I know Nick. They are not the same person. They live in different parts of the country. Jacob doesn’t even work in car audio. He is a respected member of the f150 forum and fantastic wealth of knowledge for the DIY car audio enthusiast with no ill...

X2

I completely agree with this. I’ve worked with Nick, he’s a great guy to do business with and a wealth of knowledge. Can’t go wrong with Apicella Auto Sound.

No need to solder to the plug. Pick up this t harness and it’s all plug and play. Regardless, you will still need to run tweeter wires up the a-pillars but that extremely easy to do. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-fd02

You need an amp in between the lc2i and sub.

Both Crutchfield and that shop are wrong. If a shop is recommending ANYTHING other than the Zen a2b to integrate with the b&o system, you need to find another shop. Using the fix86 or any other device will require you to mutilate your factory harness and you still won’t get the necessary signal...

You need to run dedicated power and ground for your sub amp. Lc2i will share that power source. Remote turn on can be obtained from fuse 23 in the passenger side kick panel.

Wasn’t accusing you.