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Here are the components I used for my 2018. The alarm module model was checked against my vin by tasca. Works awesome. Plug and play! Vehicle Security System, Ford Perimeter Plus - Ford (JS7Z-19A361-A) $180.95 The same part ordered from Ford is $235.00...

It is completely plug in play. Give the truck an hour to recognize the module and it will start working.

Mobile toys is a world class shop. 19 world titles for competitions and show cars, top 50 shop in the us, multiple top 100 installers awards. They built these for me. Their boxes are incredible. Adam Pate is the guy you want to speak with.

JL doesn’t make a 13tw3.

Buyback? What else is wrong with your truck? And if you are doing a buyback, why would you be putting stereo equipment in it?

The bid is now $505 cash.

Both the Sony and b&o are dual voice coil. I’ve had both systems. If you wire in series, you will be fine or if you pick a sub with a higher impedance, that can work too. But dual 2 in parallel is too low.

Haha, no sir. I work in finance. Audio is a hobby of mine!

You also need to take into consideration the enclosure you are putting the sub in and the sub for that matter. Problem #1. I modeled the sub for you in the enclosure size that is recommended by pioneer. .5 cu ft. Just by looking the b&o enclosure sitting in my garage, that enclosure is well...

You put a 2 ohm speaker wired in parallel to an amp that cannot handle a 1 ohm load. Dual 2 ohm voice coils wired in parallel = 1 ohm final impedance. Of course it won’t sound right and of course you are clipping at half volume. The resistance is too low for the stock amp to handle. And even...

When you put a speaker in a box it wasn’t made for powered by an amp that it’s not designed to drive, of course you are going to have terrible results. I’m not sure what you were expecting.

Your list is correct. You will get the remote signal from the LC2i. For the green sub connector, contact Digi-Key [email protected] Send them a couple pictures of the green plug and two them you want the mate. They will find it. You are still going to need pins and a Molex...

There are no wires to cut on the input side. All that goes into the amp is can-bus hi and low, power, and an a2b communication protocol usb signal. If you look at the factory sub, you can grab the signal from there. After the amp.

How have you tuned the system? By ear or with an rta? I bet money we could get A LOT more out of those L7’s with simple tuning. I wouldn’t consider those sq subs but absolutely SPL. They just need some adjustment!

Super nice man! Those kickers fit perfect. Beautiful build!

I didn’t build the pods. Mobile Toys in College Station built them. Depending on how you listen to music, 10 subs might not be overkill. I’m was going for strictly SQ and high fidelity. I wanted to have accurate and precise bass at all listening volumes as I don’t blast my stereo every time I’m...

I really appreciate the compliment!

Here’s a couple more pics. Lots left to do!

System isn’t complete yet but I ran similar amps in my 2016 and they sounded phenomenal. They look beautiful, no noise whatsoever, efficient, put out more power than they are rated for.

That’s awesome!

Ok, well use an lc2i on the sub harness and be done with it. If you are happy, that’s all that matters.

I do have to ask; why? I hope you aren’t trying to avoid running new wires to the tweeters. That’s not the right way to do this.

No because communication to the b&o amp is can-bus/ a2b. It’s a digital signal vs analog. Like I said above, once you remove the amp, the ipc thinks there is nothing connected so it mutes all sounds and reverts them to the dash speaker. I assure you, there isn’t a way around this. Plain and simple.

The head unit feeds the tweets. Here’s the pin out diagram.

Yes, from the a2b, you run the rcas into your amp and then run the output from your amp into your truck by splicing into the factory harness. You will still need to run new tweeter channels. No way around that.