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5 more orders to go to get the Gen 2 light into production, lets get this batch going!

Looking at the order sheets its a 50/50 split on Pro vs Sport. Driving combo (amber) seems to the the outlier for the outer lights, and work/scene (white) for the center light.

Some more pictures of it installed:

In the final product the brake/marker lights (3 LEDS) and cargo light (center s2) connect to a harness that replaces the short factory harness for the stock 3rd brake light. This harness is plug and play and uses factory connectors. The other 2 S2's you will need to run the harness down the...

There is a pre-production Gen 1 light on its way to NE Ford at the moment, I'm sure he will post some pics here once it's installed.

We would have had to compromise the mounting method and made it require drilling to accommodate 4 lights. This was not something we wanted to do.

We launched pre-orders yesterday, plenty of pictures on the website but here are some of them so you don't have to click through. Lights come standard with 3 * S2 Sport lights which can be upgraded to Pro's if you want. They also have the signature 3 marker/brake lights (1W each). Included...

Freshly rebuilt 0 miles on them. New uniballs, new adjuster knobs. $1100 shipped to the lower 48.

Good call on the perch change, this is what happens to top hats when they are set to mid perch with those springs: Good ones for reference:

Because the body is too long and the bump stops are in the wrong place. You’ll bottom the shock out at full compression and start ripping things apart.

To get fully compressed numbers you will need to discharge the nitrogen in them and measure them. Measurements should be taken off the truck.

This is not how you take shock measurements. You need eye to eye length (or eye to top hat (installed) for both fully extended and fully compressed. Otherwise you are just guessing about the internals at collapsed length.

So what you you doing to mitigate the shock bottoming out before the axle hits the bump stop? It won't be long before this thread has some pictures of ripped off shock mounts.

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2017/ford/f-150/raptor-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/outside-mirrors-scat

According to Tasca the PN you mentioned is the correct one for an 11-14 Raptor and pretty much and 6.2 F series. It replaces a huge number of P/N: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-ford-f-150-lincoln-mark-lt-engine-control-module-bc3z12a650fcnp/ There is a cheeper part listed also...

Finally got my truck prepped for snoball: * rebuilt one of the rxt rear shocks, probably needs a new shaft :( * removed some china lights * installed xl80s on hood mounts and some s2s in the bumper * replaced the relay module in one of my hid harnesses

Thanks! Feel free to steal any of the bumper ideas :)

No, bad things will happen. N2 is much more pressure stable as temperature rises. If you run a CO2 mixed gas as the shock gets used it will heat up and expand raising the pressure. When this happens you will risk blowing various seals in your shocks.

That will be one bitcoin for ~2mins of google time.

Its labeled "Datalink" in your owners manual, for a 2010 its fuse 20 in the passenger kick panel. Check your owners manual for that fuse label.

Are you sure you shouldn't have replaced the fuse in the passenger kick panel not the engine bay?

Breaker bar and safety glasses, I've had the joint explode on one when cranking on that bolt.

Here is what I did: http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f65/t_js-build-thread-39893/index6.html#post877906

Most places are ~$500 plus shipping. That covers oil seals and charge only. Any additional work is extra.

I had 2 of these, they don’t hold up well I’m afraid. I ended up welding a 3/8” square bar exo skeleton to them to stop them from completely destroying themselves. They will bend at the front around the door, the draw runners will fail, and the locks will break. TBH I’d return them if you can.