fair trade off id say! Plus you dont have to have the shocks hoops in the bed like other traditional longer travel rear setups so you make up some extra bedroom there
I’m sure you guys saw this but this looks so awesome. Rear cantilever that lets you keep your stock shocks even live valve, 18” of travel, and is bolt on so it can be reverted back if needed. And only 3900 bucks! This seems like a great option...
My early production 17 started very quietly a little while ago but now is pretty loud. So the new parts are a fix? I was worried the new ones would do the same thing. I don’t really want them tearing into my engine unless it’ll actually be a Permanent fix.
Has anyone come up with a positive offset wheel yet that sits exactly flush with the fender or inside a bit? I love my RRW's but im really tired of the 0 offset as I dont like how much they poke in the rear and all the mud. Im contemplating going to some 2019 oem beadlocks if I cant find any...
Well I dont hear grinding but dont really feel vacuum when the hose is removed but seems like its in 2wd while im driving so most likely theres no issues. I'm probably just over thinking it
If I were you I'd rather they replaced the whole frame. Also I feel pretty confident they will not total the vehicle for a bent frame. A frame is not that much in relation to the value of the vehicle. Good luck man. If I were you I'd just try to keep the truck as long as possible to offset...
thank you guys! I Checked this morning and the vacuum lines feel like they have no vacuum or very very little so maybe the solenoid has failed. I figure I should be able to feel at least something placing my finger over the hose on either side.
Out of curiosity I was working on my truck today and When I had the front up in the air with the engine running in 2wd when I spun the front wheel the cv shafts spun as well as the cv shaft and hub on the other side. It was my understanding that the point of the IWE ring was to disconnect the...
Ok I'll check! The APIM and screen were what were changed. Along with the USB hub and then the adapter harness. So am I kinda of out of luck if thats the case? Or is there a way I can program/manually connect to a different wire to get the amp/sub back? Would I need an APIM from the Sony...
Hey guys I just installed my full race radiator and before I bleed it tomorrow I just wanted to make sure and see what others were doing about the hose connectors for the hat I assume is the f-150’s with no external trans cooler. Do you guys just cap them off and hose clamp it? I was surprised...
There two large wires which are power and ground. And then a few small wires I’m assuming are signal wires. Do you know if I should see voltage at those wires?
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