No scratches, no damage, fairly easy to swap out for your non-CF sliding lid.
No longer need as I have installed a race radio in the front center console.
I have no idea what it is worth or what a new one would cost from the Stealership.
Pictures forth coming.
I'll start this at $75 plus...
Bought my kit from @jwpres , installed via good instructions given, bout the "Way Further" antennae from Rugged Radios, buttoned her up yesterday.
Now to better program my RM60 with some VHF Ham frequencies and I'll be happy as can be.
I'll post pictures later.
very nice, are you interested in marketing these for Gen 2 Screws?
With, or without that silly roof ventilator that leaks like crazy?
ALSO - how did you get the electrical wires into the cab?
You have the official true beadlock rings for the Gen 2? In other words the ones sold by Ford Performance at about $100 each?
If so, and you have a good price, I'd like to further inquire.
Had some deeper water to go through today and switched to 4A and it worked smoothly. Switching back to 2A the transmission/transfer case won't make the full switch.
2A just blinks and still acts like it's in 4H.
Going back to 4A it just blinks now and won't come out of 4H.
Any clues?
I believe the Venomrex 17" black VR602 wheels are quite a bit lighter than the OEM 2018 Beadlocks?
If I could get a quick deal on my 2018 Beadlocks I'd take your wheels.
I'm just up the coast in Santa Maria.
Not sure this has been mentioned but this sure helped me getting electrical lines from the engine bay past the firewall and into the cab of my 2018 SCREW.
Video expertise non-existent ( not my video) but really good info.
Doing this today to get power into my dash for my mobile radio.
I love the transmission, it's what sold me on this truck, plus the HP.
My 2011 Jeep Wrangler JKUR had a 3 speed with a weak overdrive that was near useless. It made the engine cream between shifts and was terrible for towing a trailer. Only place it was useful was rock crawling.
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