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Seems like mostly older then 2010. Wonder if they went with a better galvanized coating or better cab drainage. Probably doubtful but just checking under here, ram 1500 forum rusting cab corner site:www.ramforum.com

Anybody know how the dodge rams are holding up with all steel cabs? Couldn't find anything and the gm trucks have switched to aluminum.

That is extremely cheap.

Update- I got them mixed up. Driver side I had done and still look great thank god. Passenger side I touched up now starting to lift. Totally sealed, bubbling, punch a hole through and a whole bunch of salt or white powder underneath. How is that possible?

I used an air supplied siphon sprayer to flush out the rockers with soap and rinsed.

Should be illegal what they're using on the roads.

Here's a good example, I've been waiting to get my concrete driveway poured and have the rebar that ties to the garage pad. I dug them all up to see this. And just for comparison sake, I have the exact same rebar spare pieces off to the side just as old but not getting hit with the road salt...

How's everyones running boards holding up? Had my passenger side repaired and 4 years later its starting to separate again. Will clean out, rust convert and seam seal. Feels like I'm driving in acid rain in the winter.

I need the retrofit on mine.

Haha, I was the one that said rubberized undercoat will cause damage, but there's a difference between proper prepping underneath and applying a sealer so rust won't get underneath it. Just want it on my rockers. Edit: Sprayed undercoating thats done by a shop without prep, sealing in rust vs...

Would be almost nothing if the tape stays. Or find a grommet that fits the tube OD. Double layer of gorilla tape with grommet.

Can't see it plugging up unless you routinely drive through marsh or mud bogs.

Think I'll take like a syringe and dump a bit of corroseal along the drainage route, so it will be sure to catch the same rust path.

Checking driver side that was just bubbling before popped through. Corrosealed and repaired. Couldn't quite blend since the bottom sees no UV breakdown so its a bit darker. Clears blended. Eventually will be painting the rocker panel the same since its holding up really good.

Can you link me to the problem? Don't think I've heard the dangers. Would be nice but that was a model change. If you swap the cab you need the whole interior, computer, wiring harness.

No moon roof. Thanks.

So you're saying rust converters doesn't work in any way? They specifically say this is the level of removable required. And not everyone can afford to rip body panel apart for replacement. This is my daily driver and can't have that long of down town. And what moisture? I've plugged the top...

Dont believe it. Was plugging up the seam that leads into the cab corner and found another factory hole. Tried feeding wire through and didnt get it connected to my rust hole but theres definitely a large cavity so probably is.

Hmm, is this it? Don't think I like that idea. Reminds me of the rubber coating except oil. Would prevent corrosion but what-a-mess.

Well my rockers are holding up really well, even though haven't seen much daily driving through winter. These look perfect still, 1 year later. (Just a bit discolored near drain) So I'll recoat the rest to match the blue with undercoat underneath. I only did this end since I repaired cab corner...

Heres a good shot of the cab corner water access. Havent plugged this side yet. Top arrow is hole, bottom is corner obviously.

Bumper corner rusted real bad.

That has to be related to the battery. I'm not sure how but that seems like quite the coincidence if there's nothing on the other side. Guess it could be related to the bolt hole not being protected.

Just piled layers of silicone together in like a form and let dry for a bit and you can shape it. Not sure if anyone else can back this up for being a cause. Was thinking maybe it could be for ventilation to dry out inside if somehow moisture does get in, but I'm guessing not, plus bad spot for...