Running 5-6 will give you a heavier feel in steering but wont hurt anything.
Better straight-line stability as well.
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/higher-than-stock-caster-alignment-settings.77388/
Looks like AC compressor or Power Steering pump bolt.
It looks similar to the alternator bolt as well, but I would think you would see that straight away with Alt mounted on top of the engine
Grounds... There are a ton.
The one that rots on most F150's is the body ground that goes from body to frame by the front body mount behind passenger side step.
On the core support there are a group of grounds that tie together, probably 5-6 wires all to one connection. They are on on both...
Have you tried playing around with other fluids?
Might be worth try to use a different PS Fluid, all it costs is time and fluid.
Id start by adding some Lucas PS conditioner to the fluid you have. If that doesn't take out the noise, drain and fill with something else. Like RedLine or Amsoil...
Excuse will be....
1. still at powder they had to re-do yours
2. Waiting for shipping to come get it
3. Sent to shipper, will get eta...Shipper hasn't sent it yet will send tracking number when it ships (buys more time)
4. hey Doug the shipping # you sent was cancelled, where is my bumper...
2012.. has the brake fluid ever been bleed and changed? If not there is a good chance the fluid is contaminated and may have caused a piston in the caliper to get stuck. Or the whole caliper might be toast. You would think a tech would have noticed that when you had the rotors and pads done...
I have mentioned this before, but the Can-Bus system in our trucks is a 2 way electrical communication highway and something that may not seem connected can feed electrical interference into the system preventing modules to send good communication back and forth. This sets off a myriad of codes...
Kevin knows his shit.. Its the best front set up for sure. I dont consider it a "kit" as its more of a race fab set up that he can re-produce on a Raptor VS a bolt on kit.
I asked him a year ago if he would ever sell a DIY kit, and he did think about it, but not sure he wants his stuff out there...
Reading through the screen shots of text messages it was eerily similar to texts I have on my phone. Same excuses, same re-directs, same "cant find your email" And my experience was before the big move..lol
All the same B.S.
I like them all, the Gen 3 look is really growing on me, but I get the reason why some think the G1 looks better.
As my wife describes it, it looks meaner the fenders look like they are more pronounced.
When the Gen 2/3 gets fenders etc it looks mean too, it just looks less stalky than a G1 in...
As GCATX mentioned, I would probably attempt to tap the bottom of the flange up to try and close the gap. Then clean/dry and add some locktight 515 (anerobic sealer) and tap the new seal into place. If you wanted you could cover the edge of the tube and seal with RTV once the seal is in place.
Agreed...700lbs is high especially for a SCab.
Eibach makes 14 inch 550 with a 3.75 inner diameter. Maybe you can try a lighter spring rate, but I would double check spring length.. Pretty sure King/Fox and Icon all use a 16 length
Did you get this figured out?
As a few have mentioned, tire pressure and tire choice can make a difference. I run 35-37 psi on a 37 inch tire for comfort (D load).
If tire pressure doesn't get you there, then something is up with the shocks.
If you took an inch of pre-load out of the spring and its still harsh, its the oil or the valving that is causing that.
The oil gets hammered pretty quick, doesn't need to be leaking for them to need a rebuild...
Find a good shop that knows how to rebuild shocks and take them apart. Look at the...
Does the sound go away when transmission is put into D or R or just when fans kick on an place load on the engine etc.
Since the fans are electric and and the sound goes away when they kick on, I would be looking at the front accessory drive as well. Weird that the noise is coming from the back...
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