Search results

I just took Icons off my truck that were worn out and W'ed in only 2.5yrs/40k miles on "option 1". I replaced them deaver +3HD's on and the truck rides better than the Icon's ever did. Will always recommend deaver. Also a big thanks to @Rick at FMS for helping me get into the new set of...

That Amsoil fluid is the wrong viscosity for the 10r80, do not run it.

I just run water.

Delete the IWE's and move on with your life. I didn't even notice a fuel mileage change in my truck.

Came here to suggest this. First thing to check on a Gen1 that is killing the battery overnight. Easy check is the P for the gear indicator on the dash should be yellow when you're in park, if its not, the park switch is bad.

You need a wheel spacer to lower the wheel offset. And then get to trimming on the inner fender and firewall.

The stock inlet tubes may be "restrictive" but they don't cut off air flow. Stock VS AMS inlet tubes wouldn't be a factor in the issue the OP had.

Well, it still wasn't the tune :) Intake restriction is a new one for me. Haven't had that happen. It can cause over speed. Or if the pressure ratio is really bad, the compressor is trying to pull its self out of the inlet, and as a result the thrust washer is seeing loaded in the direction it...

It takes a lot of things wrong with a tune to blow up a turbo. Too much boost resulting in overspeed is the most common one, but Garrett's are very resilient to being run beyond their rated RPM. And these trucks. especially on pump gas, don't take that much boost. These Garret's are on easy mode...

Leaf springs generally cycle less than the shock unless its a 64" leaf pack with the hangers relocated. Especially if you put an extended shackle on and don't relocate the rear hanger. "Leverage" (what you mean is motion ratio) slows down the shaft speed. Doesn't mean the shock works harder...

It's your money (extra ~$1200?), and the 3.5 front defintely won't hurt. But I don't wouldn't spend the extra cash on it with rear still being leaf sprung. You have probably 16-17" of wheel travel in the back. I'm guessing the mid travel kit is ~16-17" wheel travel. S0 the 3.0/3.0 in the front...

What rear suspension is on the truck? If still leaf sprung, a 3.0/3.0 combo up front will be plenty. if you were link in the rear with big wheel travel, the extra damping of a 3.5 secondary could help the front "keep up" with the rear better.

They don't last 100k, but they go long enough. My truck has the RPG kit, 20k on them so far and they haven't loosened up. They're PTFE lined so, no need to lubricate them. Better than bending the dinky inner tierod in half the first time you put the tire in a hole while 100 miles from no where...

A linked truck will always ride better than a leaf sprung truck. Unless the "build" on the Gen2 includes linking it, I'd stick with the Gen3.

I have the Icon's and they work great on option 1. On option 2 they do not ride well when the truck is empty; I had them on option 2 for about 2 weeks and put them back to option 1. Makes me wonder if the HD deavers ride better than the Icons with how many guys run the HD deavers with no...

This is a huge stretch for a buy back. One of the issues is a part you modified. Doesn't matter what sort of semantics you use to explain it. And many of the other issues a Ford dealer hasn't had ample time to diagnose. Even the tailgate issue, there has been only one repair attempt. For a...

I did my truck, it's worth it. I also feel it was worth it to have a professional do it because I don't particularly enjoy going through the detailing process. I have other things to do. The best thing about it is it basically an additional, thicker and harder clear coat. So you can go get...

Zeroing the ride height does not require the Cobb be removed unless your dealer is retarded.

Ok. If you bend the shaft on the front strut, you probably ripped that corner off the truck.

They're like .1 or .2" bigger. Not a big different that you'll notice. I'd also like to take them apart, as I'd bet money the actual piston is still the same size (the gen2 shocks use a piston from a regular 2.5" shock) and the larger diameter is just more oil volume. I doubt Fox made a custom...

The shocks by themselves would not be an upgrade. You would need the Gen3 control module to go along with them, and I'm sure that isn't backwards compatible with our trucks.

Got to take this offroad a few times. Definitely a large improvement over stock. And I've made some small changes to the tune that made additional improvement (mostly just changed how quickly it opens the valve vs when it sees the front compressing). This is definitely a great upgrade and has me...

No need the "check" the shocks for function. At that mileage they're 100% smoked.

You need soft jaws for your (very securely mounted) vice that are round to clamp the shock body securely. And yes, they are tight. https://www.kartek.com/parts/king-fox-or-sway-a-way-25-shock-body-billet-aluminum-soft-jaws.html Then you need this to hold the shaft to do the piston nut-...

Theres a for sale sectoin on the forum. Called Garage sale, and there's specific rules to post there.