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Fuckin RIP... Went to order a radiator last week after towing my Rzr to Duck creek with the enclosed trailer and having to manage coolant temps to keep it under 235* with the stock radiator. CSF and Full-Race were both months out. Ron Davis is $1475 and 8 weeks. CBR is $980 through SDHQ and...

I could explain, from an engineering stand point, how its not really a clean slate engine but I don't think anyone will read all those paragraphs...lol

It's cool. I just know engineers that spend all day in the dyno cell testing and developing these engines. It may be a new engine family, but nothing is really clean slate at this point. Lots of carry over tech and design elements.

The coyote was the next "evolution" of the mod motor family. The 6.2 is also kind of a mod motor cousin; while not listed in the mod family by Ford, it does share design elements. The ecoboost stuff is an evolution of the duratec family with turbo's and DI added. Ford hasn't produced a clean...

FE is not the element symbol for iron. It is Fe, as with all element symbols, the second letter is lower case. This is why you look dumb and the other guy thought you were talking about the old Ford FE big block engine family.. Additionally, OEM's typically choose iron for cost savings. A...

Interesting yours leaked there. My pan didn't, and I didn't have to do anything with those bolts. Good thing to check on a new install though, see if those holes go through and use thread sealer or loctite to seal them up if they do. I've scraped my trans cross member and never touched the pan...

When I deleted mine I pulled ALL of the related vacuum lines between the solenoid and the IWE's out of the truck and I put a vacuum cap on the solenoid.

Yeah. The axle nut is small, only torqued to 30ftlbs. Doesn’t do anything for the bearing.

Towing I would use an E.

Yeah man, they're a deal for what they are.

Mine didn't "explode" per so, it just slipped/failed to maintain lock. Regardless, it failed. Once they've been grinding like yours have, they already need replaced anyways or they'll slip on you offroad in high load situations. Might as well delete them since it's gonna be apart. The RCV...

I can't answer that, but its a cv joint. It just turning with no load on it (it's not transmitting torque to move the truck) doesn't really effect its life span. The boots might wear out a little faster, but those are easy to replace. Certainly cheaper and easier than dealing with recurrent IWE...

There is no change in turning radius or road feel, and no concern for "wear" on the cv's and front diff. The mpg difference wasn't noticeable on my truck. I still get 12.5-13 depending on my street/highway mix.

Easy button is just delete the IWE's. They're a known issue due to vacuum line failure as well as breaking under high load offroad. Save yourself all this work and head scratching, toss the RCV deletes in.

I run the AFE pan, it holds more fluid (+7.5qts overstock). And yes, the dipstick is a good upgrade.

4A on the Jenny locks the front hubs (which is why steering gets heavier) and uses a computer controlled clutch pack in the transfercase to send power to the front as needed. Its sort of like the AWD system in a GTR. Perfectly fine to use on dry pavement. That being said, you don't have the...

Yup, basically. To do donuts in 4wd you need an absolute surplus of HP. And you end up spinning cookies if you do it right, like monster trucks. But I still wouldn't do it in a truck. Hard to get out of them without flipping over.

Truck was in 4wd, no amount of throttle was going to save it. Wet sand added to the issue by giving the truck even more traction. Being in 4wd is mostly what caused the truck to roll, otherwise it would've never had the traction to lift the inside front to get the party started.

The OEM ones.

If you actually offroad the truck, it's time for suspension upgrades. Fox 3.0's, deavers, UCA, and a bumpstop setup. And as Ben said, driver mod. My truck is the same as yours in the HP mod dept, and it's more than capable of overdriving the stock suspension or someone that isn't as capable as...

I use raybestos police compound pads and raybestos slotted rotors. I have had powerstop on my other F150, and it did not compare to the performance of the raybestos stuff.

I have no problem with E range tires on my truck. First set was 35" Nitto ridgegrapplers, then 35" Toyo AT2's. I run 40psi (cold) on the street, and air down do 28-30psi for offroading in the dirt, 20psi for sand dunes. They work awesome and the ride quality is no different from the Load range D...

Depends on what you want. If you're just rebuilding it to OEM spec (no mods); I would order a crate engine/long block from Ford or a reputable re-manufacturer (Jasper, etc).

The strut assembly is at least way easier to get in/out with out the lift spacer...lol Make sure to use a spring compressor to change the top hats.

Well there ya go. And yeah, those studs were cut. Now the truck will sit proper when you get the top hats.