After 60+ years of driving, racing, maintaining, and modifying engines I've never worn out or had a lubrication-related failure in any engine using synthetic oil of any brand in the correct viscosity and API rating. All the EcoBoost engines need the latest API SP-rated synthetic oil, ANY BRAND...
Yeah, Winfield is one-of-a-kind. In the Raptor world he had become the #1 goto for tuning/hp mods. He has also stepped into the ExplorerST world and in the very short time that the Cobb hardware/software has been available for it, he is rivaling the known best guy there for top honors. Congrats...
Yeah can’t say exactly, but it follows the throttle plate position, so likely turbo pressure. I would expect it to be caused by the airflow in/around the turbocharger(s). It could be a cracked or otherwise damaged boost/suction tube. Most likely right near the turbo. Could simply be loose...
The new(er) Ford vehicles are neutered in do many ways, its 1984 in action. Anything past 2021 is a hard NO for me. I believe there is a showdown with technology and consumers coming like nothing we've seen before. Just be ready, or at least not surprised when the Fed govt tries to take control...
I believe what you're having is normal. 55C is 131F and there is a huge designed drop in power at 140F. I believe you're seeing normal limitations. Move somewhere cooler, get a bigger intercooler, AND switch to a higher E-blend fuel.
Its mot likely to just “fail” and leave you stranded. As mileage increases other support and convenience systems are what usually cause issues. Does it need much “boost” to tow the trailer, or is it easy running?
Well, the only people who can help you recover 5-star crap are the 5-star goons. You can pull the ECU and send it off to ANY tuner other than 5-star goons or the dealer to get it reloaded with stock tune.
So, no codes or other faults reported? The intake/manifold air temps were likely high enough to drop the Load allowed so low the “boost” allowed was near ambient pressure. People(?) usually don't understand what it takes to get serious power out of a small displacement engine AND it be reliable...
Your getting into limp mode for whatever reason. The “no boost” is normal when that happens.
Explain “normal driving” and what you were doing before that “normal driving”. A burnout or similar WOT shenanigans?
Yeah, because unless top fuel or funny car drag racers in stock-body classes of ALL makes run the Ford rear because its literally the best in the world.
Idiots don’t know how much they don’t know.
The stability control system applies the rear brakes pretty often to keep the rear following instead of passing the front, among other times. This causes the rear to wear quicker. Also, the front pads are a LOT thicker than the rears.
Yeah, in your case, a bottled octane booster or the WMI is the better option for “more power”. If Cobb had included their prior Ford Features, you could have run several fuel specific tunes. The HPTuners people are leaving Cobb in the dust on their “custom” software code. Its sad really as I...
Yeah the BMS determines the charge rate, so you must reset it so it will start anew. It sounds like that remote battery, or the hardware itself may be the issue genesis.
Well the app is known to be crap now, but you may have a loose sensor on the truck. However, it takes a pretty big movement to trigger the alarm, plus the horn will sound for alarm as well.
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