nice job!! glad to see you did it the right way instead of just bolting in shocks because you could. After rebuilding gen 1 and 2 shocks, the Gen 2 look like a major upgrade over gen 1's.
This is a new 3rd brake light i developed and designed.
PNW_1 Gen 1 Raptor Overview
$375.00 shipped Non NMO
$400.00 shipped NMO mount
This billet aluminum brake light fits 2010-2014 Ford Raptors and allows for the installation of 3 Baja Designs S2 lights. This kit comes with new mounting...
I have the first batch of PNW brake lights ready to ship. Still working on the website but if you want one now just send me a PM and i'll get them shipped out.
PNW_1 Gen 1 Raptor Overview
This billet aluminum brake light fits 2010-2014 Ford Raptors and allows for the installation of 3 Baja...
Let us know about the LCA bushings. I seem to remember another post where the guy bought bushings and they were not the correct part for the Raptor LCA.
I've heard it slightly restricts airflow into the AC system so you might lose some velocity through your vents. Not sure if its noticeable, but it might be worth having cleaner air in the cabin.
There's a new 3rd brake light coming to market soon. Similar to GJ and RPG.
- Billet aluminum housing.
- Allows the installation of 3 Baja Designs S2 lights.
- Uses factory bolt locations.
- No cutting or drilling.
- Comes with 3 prewired red LEDs for brake and marker lights.
- Powder coated...
I have a set of Gen 2 shocks that need rebuilt. I’m not rebuilding Gen 2s anymore so I’m selling off my stock. Tears have schrader valves installed and 2 extra valves will be included for the fronts. Shipping available but local pick up is preferred
$600.00 local pick up in everett, wa
Buyer...
I have a used Gen 1 GJ 3rd brake light. All LEDs work but you will have to cut your existing harness or rewire it. It's only 2 wires so pretty simple to figure out. There is some RTV remanants on the top and sides and some weird stain on the top but if you want a perfect clean brake light...
I’ve been doing 200psi per the rebuild thread in in the sticky section. You may want to try SDHQ for the stickers? I've never bought decals as i generally just leave them blank or i have my gf make me some custom ones and then i wrap the body with clear vinyl.
you might be overthinking it but it seems reasonable to try to get all the build air out before charging. On the rear shock you could pull the IFP all the way up, install the cap and then charge it. that would bleed out most of the build air. Do the same thing for the fronts. push the IFP...
The fronts and rears are a little different.
Rear - Install IFP and push all the way down. Install bypass tube and fill with 28oz of fluid. SLOWLY cycle the IFP up and down a few inches to remove any trapped air. When no more bubbles come up when pushing the IFP down, the system is bled...
Those cleaned up nicely!!! And yeah, welcome to the world of rebuilding 10+ year old shocks. I would look at shock seals for your seal kits as they seem to have the best prices. I cerakote the bodies as well as the retaining clip on the fronts to keep them from corroding again. Amazon sells a...
You'll likely need 2 ballast and a wire harness for it to be plug and play. Check out The Retrofit Source and look at their kit for 2009-2014 retrofit kit or give them a call and tell them what you're trying to do and they should tell you what you need. Basically you need a ballast connected to...
They will be for sale in a few weeks. Gen 1 lights are in production now and should be ready in a few weeks. Price will be $350 shipped and will include pre wired LEDs for the brake light, wire harness for the S2 lights, gaskets for the S2's and housing, and new stainless mounting hardware...
Does anyone know what kind of connector this is? Its the OEM connector on our 3rd brake light. I don't need the harness, i just need the connector shown in the pic. I found one from the connector experts but its $90. i have to believe you can find these in bulk much cheaper.
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